Watches and Wonders Edit: Tudor’s Black Bay diver’s watch gets 4 new versions, from 18k solid gold to a pink dial – but the Clair de Rose could be the blue jewel in the crown
Tudor might have introduced the Black Bay only in 2012, but it quickly established itself as one of the most recognisable divers’ watches on the market. Loved for its classic, somewhat retro look and supremely legible dial featuring the trademark square-tipped “snowflake” hands, the Black Bay is a homage to Tudor divers’ watches from the 1950s, in particular the Submariner, which inspired the look of its case, dial and shoulderless crown.
At Watches and Wonders 2024, four fresh takes on the Black Bay made their debut, along with an eye-catching edition of another Tudor classic, the Clair de Rose, which shows off a smart new blue dial.
Among the new Black Bays, there’s a version of the classic model featuring a monochromatic look, with a black dial and applied rhodium plated hands and indications, but more striking still is the coveted Black Bay Chrono line being given an innovative makeover with a pink dial.
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Alongside them are two new versions of another of the most popular lines within the collection, Black Bay 58, which takes its name from the year Tudor released the “Big Crown”, its first divers’ watch to be waterproof to 200 metres.
One of them, the Black Bay 58 18K, stands out for the solid yellow gold of its satin-finished, 39mm case and matching bracelet. The first Tudor divers’ watch made from solid yellow gold, it also features yellow gold accents in the form of the applied hour markers and snowflake hands, which offset a dial in golden green. Ticking at its heart is the Manufacture Calibre MT5400 movement, which is visible through the open caseback – also a first on a Tudor divers’ watch.
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The other new version of the Black Bay 58 is the first in the collection to feature a GMT complication. Also housed in a 39mm case, the Black Bay 58 GMT comes with a bidirectional black and burgundy bezel with gilt accents, and is powered by the GMT Manufacture Calibre MT5450-U movement, which packs an impressive 65-hour power reserve. The watch has been honoured with the coveted Master Chronometer certification for its outstanding accuracy and resilience.
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The Clair de Rose, a perennial favourite in Tudor’s collections, also gets an update. Inspired by the elegance of watches from the 1930s, it combines a delicate dial with a bold circular case in stainless steel, and comes with the line’s characteristic crown set with a spinel cabochon.
That stone, along with the dial, comes in the brand’s signature Tudor blue, a colour that has been associated with the watchmaker since it first appeared on the Submariner back in 1969.
Available in 26mm, 30mm and 34mm sizes, and with or without diamonds on the dial, it also showcases the collection’s super supple five link “beads of rice” bracelet. The new Clair de Rose is powered by the Calibre T601 or T201 mechanical movement with a date function, indicated in a window at 3 o’clock.
- The Black Bay 58 GMT, packing an impressive 65-hour power reserve, has been honoured with the coveted Master Chronometer certification for its accuracy and resilience
- Black or pink? While the classic Black Bay is available in a monochromatic finish, one piece from the Chrono line gets a bold makeover – a pink dial