Perfect Match
Spaghetti Bolognese is one of the best-known pasta sauces, popular with everyone from children to professional chefs. The essence of this classic Italian recipe from Emilia-Romagna is a minced meat sauce that has subtle spices and herbs in a rich tomato paste. It's a hearty, harmonious dish without many flavour high notes. It is well rounded and the addition of grated cheese enhances the fullness of the dish and confirms its intensity by adding a salty, savoury base.
The ideal wine must have an equal intensity of flavours. The oaky notes of many reds can be absorbed as part of the savoury base note that enhances the wine's fruitiness.
Alter Ego de Palmer 1998, Margaux, Bordeaux, France
If you think the label of the Alter Ego de Palmer looks similar to that of Chateau Palmer, you'd be right - except it's a reverse negative of the famous label. 'Second wines' from chateaux in Bordeaux are pretty much a necessity - it's a good way of using up the grapes that are good, but not great enough for the main chateau wine. But be careful in pronouncing it a 'second wine' in front of anyone from Bordeaux. They, like Australians, are keen brand builders, and the term suggests inferiority. Instead, they prefer to talk about each wine's individual personality. This Alter Ego de Palmer is from the highly drinkable 1998 vintage. Its richness is rare in a second wine, where it is easier and cheaper to give more oak rather than fruit flavours. The Alter Ego de Palmer makes a seamless combination with a good variation on spaghetti Bolognese with veal and anchovy. Just don't serve it to an Italian.
Available for $495 from Ponti Trading, tel: 2810 1682
'The Stocks' Shiraz 2001, Woodstock, McLaren Vale, South Australia
This is the classically soft, rich McLaren Vale style. The area, to the south of Adelaide, gets plenty of grape-ripening sunshine, yet the vines enjoy flavour accumulating from the afternoon sea breeze. This is a big wine, with plenty of concentrated spicy and aromatic shiraz fruit all wrapped nicely with a lot of classy oak. It's dangerously drinkable now, but also age worthy. Close attention reveals chocolate, coffee, cinnamon and other brown spices derived from oak. These base notes are easy to understand and pleasant enough, even in large quantity, for it to be enjoyable. More importantly, they add a new dimension to the richness of the Bolognese sauce.
Available for $394 from Kedington, tel: 2898 9323
Rosso Conero 2001, Umani Ronchi, Marches, Italy
Marches on the Adriatic coast is one of the most beautiful areas in the world. There are almost inaccessible cliffs on one side and the serene Adriatic on the other. It's also home to a unique grape speciality. The Rosso Conero grape makes some of the softest, lushest wine in Italy. It has some tannins and good acid backbone, but it can never be accused of being excessive. Of all the producers in the region, Umani Ronchi leads the way and proudly waves the Marches flag. The world-class cellars are a must-see if you're a wine geek. It would be more regionally respectful to pair Lambrusco, a light, wishy-washy wine, with spaghetti Bolognese, but Rosso Conero is superior.
Available for $98 from Valdivia, tel: 2555 7431
