Sunday, September 11 Ashish N Soni's debut show in the United States features Zen-like sounds instead of the high-octane DJ mixes normally associated with fashion shows. To achieve his hip Indian-in-America look, Soni pairs wool waistcoats with black kurta churidars or adds a grey acid-dye effect to a cream cherwani.

The Diane von Furstenberg show is held at her shop/showroom/theatre/home in New York's trendy Meat-packing District. Models with big hair and high Christian Louboutin heels sashay in her signature wrap dresses, which are adorned with prints of coral shells, oversized polka dots, leaves, twigs and sundials. Her collection, inspired by 1960s Rome, includes a myriad of ensembles. Cotton jacquard coats are short and mimosa-print day dresses are long and flowing. A chiffon cocktail bustier dress gets a nod of approval from Paris Hilton and a creamy gown has Ellen Barkin whispering, 'That one is so-o-o mine.'

Monday, September 12 Carolina Herrera stays true to her roots with pretty details such as over-sized bows, billowy sleeves, ruffles and floral embroidery. Look out for her strapless, black, silk gazar-tiered gown - this look has the front row scribbling like mad.

Diesel, on the other hand, proves even the most feminine woman needs snug jeans. The collection echoes 40s wartime with bad-boy sailor influences.

Slipping out early, I get to Bryant Park just in time for the start of the Oscar de la Renta show, which features brocade suits and voluminous skirts. Details such as bows and beading are a must this season and the designer makes it loud and clear. Fabrics such as faille, chiffon, tulle and taffeta in bold prints are key for dresses this spring.

Everything goes smoothly until gatecrashers make their way to the BCBG Max Azria show, leaving many of us no option but to stand outside and view the collection on flat-screen televisions. As always, it features some flowing, carefree numbers. The best thing about this brand is you can always look casual, but it never looks like you paid a casual price. Long dresses take on lean lines in thin, body-hugging material such as satin charmeuse, liquid jersey and silk crepe de Chine.

Across town, the Marc Jacobs show starts with the crash of a symbol of Penn State's 160-member brass band. The models float by wearing white papery shirtdresses, sculpted pea jackets and crossover dresses. Jacobs' models wear dresses with a dramatic, scooping cowl neck and voluminous, curvy coats.

Tuesday, September 13 Red-carpet favourite Pamella Roland rolls out 60 elegant ensembles. Getting her inspiration from a holiday in Capri, she chooses a range of silk chiffon, brocade, organza and charmeuse for her delectable gowns. Her crisscrossed empire waists, tailored shorts and beaded cocktail dresses are sure to be favourites at weddings and award shows.

Next, to the Matthew Williamson show. Everyone's doing chiffon, but no one does it like Williamson. Breezy shift tanks are weighed down by beaded flowers paired with fitted shorts adorned with oversized pearls. Edges with scalloped details are prominent, as are high-waisted dresses cut away from the body. He is proof that young and feminine is always in style.

Wednesday, September 14 Peter Som, drawing inspiration from Madame Butterfly, tries to use nautical influences to offset femininity, leaving the audience somewhat puzzled. His collection features super-wide-leg pants and navy-striped tops; high necklines on chiffon blouses; linen sack dresses; and voluminous tulle skirts.

The theme of Michael Kors' show is urban cowgirl and the colour palette is simple: ivory and white, cobalt blue, black, and orange. The collection features black gabardine jackets belted over white cotton eyelet skirts, luscious cashmere coats over black bikinis, hemp suede hand-smocked tunic with gaucho pants - all cosy and wearable.

Naomi Campbell opens Anna Sui's procession, strutting down the runway in high-heeled cowboy boots and one of the season's must-have chiffon dresses. Sui achieves femininity with crinkle chiffon shirt dresses and drop-waist silk smocks over a matching slip.

Hong Kong's very own Vivienne Tam has stayed away from her usual Chinese motifs such as dragons and double happinesses, and has gone hot on crochet.

Thursday, September 15 There's standing room only at J. Mendel, who has some fun with corset tops and unfinished edges. Choosing a pale colour palette with bursts of icy blue and aquamarine, his cocktail and evening dresses are cut with curves in mind but frayed edges create a look suitable for a gala or the afterparty.

The Calvin Klein show features simple chic in neutral hues with a splash of colour. Dresses are airy and simple, and wide-legged, white palazzo trousers take to the runway with pencil skirts. Using fabrics such as cashmere and cotton, designer Francis Costa stays true to Calvin Klein's minimalist style.

It's the last show on the list tonight and Zac Posen delivers a dreamy collection. There are only two pairs of pants in the collection, the rest comprises sweeping strapless evening dresses, ruffled fishtail mermaid gowns and cocktail dresses in taupe, bronze and teal. His two finales are worth a mention: a voluminous cloud-like lavender gown and a dark purple frock, for which he gets a standing ovation.

Friday, September 16 This morning, Ralph Lauren is hosting two shows, one for friends and family and the other for the working people; editors, buyers, retailers. Lauren has stuck to his trademark colour palette - navy, cream, white and black. The nautical feel is popular this year, but for Lauren, it is featured annually. The patchwork denim in his day wear doesn't seem to work as well as his classic preppy look, though he mixes casual fabrics well for evening wear, evidenced in the finale dress - a strapless gown with a ruched bodice and flowing tiers on the skirt.

Donna Karan's show is at her flagship store and, compared with last season's multifarious display, she has cleaned up her act. She has packed away the jewels and left the beads at home. Detail comes in flat pleats on chiffon dresses and belts tied into neat bows.

I am downtown for the last show of Fashion Week, that of Derek Lam, whose collection is influenced by a holiday in the tropics. Models wear sexy baby-doll dresses and orchid leis. A white linen jacket with layered peplums and a grey cardigan with a silk polka-dot back is one look, but Lam also showcases a tweed trench coat.

I may be wearing jeans with cowboy boots, but come spring, I'll have to get myself a nice, billowy dress. Designer label optional.