Spring to light
SPRING IS HERE and along with the crisp weather comes a host of fresh new looks that will have you abandoning your winter blacks in no time. Although this season's offerings are a departure from autumn's sobriety, they also lay to rest the carefree Boho spirit that dominated last summer. In place of heavy layers and thick fabrics are lighter, couture-inspired fabrics in a range of neutral shades and, of course, white.
'Designers have put emphasis on the texture of fabrics and the way it's used,' says Anita Wong, general merchandiser at Joyce. 'There are plenty of luxurious fabrics, including jacquards, metal mixed cottons and sheer layers. Ruffles and pleating were also prominent in most collections and layering has been a big focus.'
It was clear by the time the Milan shows came around that this was a dress season. Dresses in all shapes and forms dominated the catwalk, along with other spring essentials such as swimsuits, shorts, ruffled blouses and tulip skirts. What area did designers show off the most? The waist and shoulders.
Here are some of the season's top trends:
White and neutrals
There's no doubt that white is the colour of the season, as seen at Calvin Klein, Derek Lam and minimalist Jil Sander. The look is clean and fresh, with the essential white shirt often decorated with details such as ruffles and bows. Neutrals also abound at Prada (where Miuccia uses every tone from putty to blush) and at Dior (where John Galliano has based the entire collection around nude and lace). For evening, metallics injected glamour at Louis Vuitton and Burberry Prorsum.
How to wear it
A white shirt, preferably with ruffles (tuxedo styles were seen at Yves Saint Laurent and Proenza Schouler), worn with skinny trousers, jeans or a tulip skirt.
Couture references
Because of such a simple colour palette, many designers opted to use couture fabrics to create a highly stylised look. At Balenciaga, Nicholas Ghesquiere created Louis XIV-style, frothy jackets with lace and ruffles. Chloe's handmade sheer shirts and white dresses featured embroidery, eyelets and appliques. Stefano Pilati at Yves Saint Laurent decorated his white dresses with pom poms. The emphasis was on couture techniques and 1950s references such as pleating (as seen at Hermes).
How to wear it
For a special occasion, opt for a theatrical dress. For every day, details such as pleating, bubble shapes and couture fabrics will create the right look without going over the top. Fabrics to look out for are lace, jacquard and silk.
Prints
They also made a comeback, but in a softer, more romantic form. Refined and elegant, prints have been inspired by artists such as Claude Monet (as seen at Rochas), Henri Matisse (Etro) and even contemporary US artist Jeff Koons (Stella McCartney). That's not to say that designers didn't have some fun. Polka dots were the choice at Fendi, and Diane Von Furstenberg and Anna Sui got fruity.
How to wear it
The general rule of thumb is to never put two different prints together. If you're going for something bold and colourful, ensure the fabric isn't too clingy or shiny.
Dresses
This is the season of dresses, and the little black dress (LBD) has been replaced by the little white dress (LWD). Frida Giannini went back to Gucci's archives and resurrected vintage floral prints on long silhouettes inspired by Rochas. Alexander McQueen sent out models in gladiator-style togas, and the empire line was another flattering favourite. Glamour dresses in shaded colours were all the rage at Versace, where Donatella Versace cited 'desert sands and sunsets' as inspiration. Cocktail dresses were also seen at Chanel, Alberta Ferretti and Prada, where Miuccia Prada reigned as the queen of embellishment.
How to wear it
Super-thin waifs will love the new trapeze line, whereas empire lines are best for curvy girls. The new look can be worn on its own or over jeans or leggings. If you go for longer styles, bare your shoulders for a hint of sexiness.
Boyish elegance
The look this season has moved on from masculine suiting. Loose-tailored trousers can still be spotted at brands such as Bottega Veneta, but slimmer lines were paired with short-fitted jackets at Yves Saint Laurent. Tailored shorts were also a big trend, with Bermuda styles at one end, and short shorts on the other. Ties added a masculine touch at Lanvin and Chloe, and the preppy rugby shirt also made a comeback.
How to wear it
Short shorts or Bermudas look best with a loose fitted T-shirt and sexy wedges. Trousers should be tapered or super skinny, end just above the ankle, and be paired with a polo shirt.
Nautical
Last year, it was all about Balenciaga, but for spring, Antonio Marras at Kenzo revealed a less preppy, nautical look with more attitude. Crochet, horizontal stripes and plenty of navy and white have created a more wearable look, and have also been spotted at Ralph Lauren and Emporio Armani.
How to wear it
If stripes are too much, opt for cropped sailor trousers or navy blue jackets with brass buttons. Clingy knits in white or navy can also be worn with leggings. Finish off with a belt and flat shoes.
Oriental chic
It was only natural that this trend re-emerged when Memoirs of a Geisha came to the big screen. Rather than directly translating the look, designers have taken inspiration from Japanese and Asian styling with kimonos, obi-style belting and oriental embroideries as seen at Dries Van Noten, Lanvin and Valentino. Donna Karan included minimalist Japanese accents with origami style jackets with belts.
How to wear it
Again, it's all in the detail. Dresses or tops with origami-style folds, or Asian-inspired prints, can add a soft look. Or take a cue from Alber Elbaz and wear an obi with a white shirt and pair it with a pencil skirt and platforms.
Rock'n'roll
At Undercover, Jun Takahashi took inspiration from German rock bands, and Junya Watanabe sent out punks in cropped bondage trousers, grungy boots, and skewed trenchcoats. T-shirts and leather also got the rock treatment at Balenciaga and Ann Demeulemeester. At Chanel, Karl Lagerfeld introduced a rock-inspired collection called Coco meets James Dean, with plenty of black and white and chains.
How to wear it
A rock T-shirt is a must-have and can be paired with skinny jeans or trousers. Finish it with a well-cut jacket.
