Joining hands Chanel
Luxury brands collaborate to create a simple but successful collection
Audemars Piguet is highly regarded for its expertise in the development of grand complication movements. It may therefore come as a surprise to learn of its collaboration with Chanel to produce a simple complication for the luxury brand's newest addition to its hugely successful J12 family.
The collaboration began two years ago, just a year after the J12 debuted at BaselWorld. Chanel's goal was to find a simple calibre that represented the roots of traditional watchmaking, with which they could make some aesthetic modifications.
Philippe Mougenot, president of Chanel's watch and fine jewellery division said: 'We wanted to do another J12 but this time simple, clean and of higher quality. We wanted a classic, elegant timepiece and [they] allowed us freedom with the aesthetics and to refine the movement a little.'
The calibre chosen was the Audemars Piguet 3120, a three-hand movement with date, large seconds and automatic winding. Chanel opened up the oscillating mass and the rotor was clad in black ceramic, in keeping with the material commonly used in the J12 series.
The balance bridge was modified to appear more linear and tighter, and the finished result was the new Chanel-AP 3125.
Chanel's desire for simplicity was in part a reaction to the trend for over-complicated and oversized watches which have dominated the market in recent years.
'We don't like to follow the same trend as others. We wanted to go back to classics,' Mr Mougenot said.
The end result is the J12 Calibre 3125, an automatic watch with three hands, finished in yellow gold and black ceramic. The watch bears the hallmarks of Audemars Piguet's craftsmanship and finishes, and Chanel's luxurious aesthetics. It will launch in September.
Georges-Henri Meylan, managing director and president of Audemars Piguet, said that combining one of the greatest names in the luxury world with one of the greatest names in watchmaking was a rare opportunity. 'We have found the approach of Chanel particularly interesting as it's the first time we have participated in a complete project.'
Both companies see the collaboration as the first of future projects.
The J12 series is Chanel's most successful collection and within it the watchmaker is keen to pursue the dual path combining high jewellery with timepieces. One of its signature pieces is the ceramic J12 set with diamond baguettes.
The new J12 Tourbillon Fine Jewellery watch combines a complicated movement (the Chanel 05.T.1 tourbillon movement) with jewellery. The watch case and bracelet appear in black ceramic and the bezel is set with 46 baguette cut diamonds. The watch is limited to 12 pieces.
Following last year's J12 GMT debut in black ceramic, a new addition will launch this year. Entirely in white ceramic, the watch retains all the features of its predecessor, including two time zones with a calibrated bezel displaying the hours of the wearer's home time.
Mr Mougenot said the versatility of the J12 allowed Chanel variety in its designs, which included combining sport elements with jewellery. Later this year, the J12 collection will release high jewellery models that combine ceramic with baguette cut diamonds, and chronograph and tourbillon movements.
