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The metro

When the outside temperature goes up it also signals the arrival of the sandal season - or the season of unbearable sightings of ripped toe nails and socks with sandals (a taboo Comme des Garcons has experimented with on the catwalk, but nope, I am not convinced).

There also seem to be men out there who don't know sandal etiquette. You see them everywhere - they slip off their sandals and pick their toes (and then grab a sandwich), or lift their feet up onto the table and wiggle their dirty digits in your face. And they think that what they wear hiking to Tai Long Wan is appropriate for an afternoon high tea.

Sandals, when handled without care, can make you look like you have been just released from jail. But when worn correctly, they make you shine.

The rules are simple: chunky legs are not for thin-sole numbers with thin straps, just as low-waist jeans are not for anyone under 175cm. Those with more muscular calves may turn to one of Bally's Lurago-Moka designs with studs (below), which have a rougher look but are still refined enough for urban life.

Skinny legs should try long trousers with sandals. I find that a casual summer suit can look sensational with dressy sandals, as in both Louis Vuitton and Aigner.

Of course, in Hong Kong's summer, it's probably more practical to lose the jacket.

A complete sandal collection should start with a black calf-leather pair and a brown equivalent and from there on, the palette is unlimited. Givenchy has calf-leather sandals in white (completed with the brand's signature logo impressed onto the strap to form a pattern), while Dries Van Noten goes yellow (right). Contrast is good, so an overall dark outfit can go with a pair of bright-coloured footwear, but unless you're gifted with a good eye for colour, don't put too many tones together.

A man with long pins may consider Gucci's black calf-leather pair with its signature web design in black, white and red on the front strap. It's the kind of footwear you can wear all day; with shorts during the day hanging out by the seaside and with dress trousers at night to hang out at one of the Wyndham Street watering holes. Although with calf-leather you don't necessarily want to go near the water.

Something that you can wear to the beach but still looks sophisticated as city footwear is Dior Homme's sandals (above) with cotton canvas straps and a rubber sole. All the materials can withstand water, but the colour tone and texture of the design make it suitable for more than the sand. For the real beach bums, flip-flops are the order of the day, but just because they are flip-flops it doesn't mean you should be mindless with them. Sure you can get random plastic ones for as little as HK$8, but unless you only ever hang out on Peng Chau, you need a pair of decent ones. A pair of Havaianas (right) is always a safe bet, and as there are so many different colours and styles to choose from you'll want to have an entire collection. But not everyone can carry Havaianas - ask those guys who've never ventured outside of black, white and blue to wear them. It's like serving sushi to someone from West Virginia.

Even if you aren't used to colour, at least get a pair of Diesel flip-flops from the brand's Water Games collection this season. The gradient pattern formed by letters from the brand's name is playful and boyish, and I particularly like the Turkish sea blue ones, which will compliment a white linen shirt.

A surprise find I had the other day was at M&S. I go there mostly for underwear and socks, but I admire the mass-market brand for having continued to come up with new lines that are of good quality, such as Blue Harbour.

My latest purchase from that line was a pair of red flip-slops, which show that the simplest design is sometimes best. They go really well with my yellow Quiksilver, which I mostly wear on rainy days walking my dog.

Shopping List

Bally, Shop 211-212, Times Square, Causeway Bay, tel: 2506 3312

Givenchy available from Seibu, Pacific Place, Admiralty, tel: 2971 3888

Dries Van Noten available from Joyce, New World Tower, 16 Queen's Rd Central, tel: 2869 5816

Gucci, Harbour City, 7 Canton Rd, Tsim Sha Tsui, tel: 2199 7728

Dior Homme, The Landmark, Central, tel: 2524 8277

Havaianas available from Delay No Mall, 68 Yee Wo St, Causeway Bay, tel: 2577 6988

Diesel, 6 Kingston St, Causeway Bay, tel: 2895 1592

M&S, Central Tower, Queen's Rd Central, tel: 2921 8317

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