If a cheese could sue for misrepresentation, then parmesan would surely go after Kraft. Millions of children have grown up thinking parmesan is a pale bland powder that comes in a green can. The flavour is only a ghost of top-quality parmesan, which has a complex taste that dances between sweet, sharp, salty, nutty and aromatic.

The real stuff is made in specific areas of Italy under strict DOC (denominazione di origine controllata) regulations. It's made by curdling cow's milk (a mixture of whole and skimmed milk) with rennet; the curds are drained of whey (which can be used to make ricotta, or fed to the pigs used for Parma ham), pressed and shaped into huge wheels. The wheels are soaked in brine then aged in airy rooms for at least a year, being turned frequently to dry evenly. The wheels are inspected for flaws and only the best are labelled as top-quality parmesan. Any that fail the inspection are sold as pre-grated cheese or used in prepared foods.

A chunk of parmesan is a delicious addition to a cheese board, but more often, it's grated or shaved and sprinkled over foods. Parmesan is high in umami - the elusive savoury 'deliciousness' also found in the crystalline form of monosodium glutamate (MSG). Like MSG, parmesan enhances the flavour of foods, so it's used on pasta, risotto and meats, in creamy sauces and even in soups (the hard rind can add depth minestrone).