Uncorked
Although malbec has been grown for centuries in France, it has little presence there these days. Malbec was viewed as a blending grape, an important part of the six wines that comprise red Bordeaux. It is still occasionally used as a blending grape in Bordeaux and the Loire Valley.
Once malbec migrated to the dry foothills of Argentina's Andes, the variety came into its own, yielding wines with deep purple colours and fat, dense, ripe fruit. The significant daily temperature variations in Argentina's Mendoza region allow the variety to ripen well and at the same time retain a refreshing acidity. Malbec is comparable to shiraz but with shockingly dry tannins, so is best served with food.
Drop of the week:
Bodega Mendel Unus 2006, Mendoza
Roberto de la Mota is one of Argentina's winemaking superstars, best known for his former involvement in Cheval des Andes, the collaboration between Bodegas Terrazas de los Andes and Bordeaux's Chateau Cheval-Blanc. Bodega Mendel is his joint venture with the Sielecki family. Undaunted by a car accident in 2007 that left him in a wheelchair, de la Mota's deft touch is evident in this elegant wine.
Intense black, dark berry and black cherry fruit with green-leafy hints. Full range of fine, ripe, mouth-coating tannins, evidence of smart winemaking and a portion of cabernet sauvignon in the blend. Excellent fruit concentration, weight and balance with exceptional length.
Available for HK$315 at Nathan Fine Wines (tel: 2321 1169).
Debra is also drinking:
Terrazas de los Andes Afincado 2006, Mendoza
Restrained dark cherry and raisin notes. Very smooth for malbec, with a firm mid-palate. Ripe fruit with tannins a touch firmer towards the back palate. Well-integrated oak and excellent length, this is a real crowd-pleaser.
Available for HK$425 at Moet Hennessy Diageo (tel: 2976 1888).
Finca Sophenia Reserva Malbec 2008, Mendoza
Juicy berry fruit, produced in a rustic, traditional malbec style with savoury meaty, smoky and bacon notes. Dusty palate texture, good length with a hint of bitterness. Maturing quickly, so drink soon.
Available for HK$108 at Castello del Vino (tel: 2866 0577).
Bianchi Famiglia 2006, Mendoza
Spiced mulled fruit with mocha and tobacco accents; dense, firm and meaty. Warm alcohol makes this a good winter wine. Would like to see more structural elegance. Tannins are pronounced and firm, so drink with food - an Argentinian steak would be an ideal match. Medium length and excellent value.
Available for HK$98 at Montrose (tel: 2555 8877).
Terrazas Reserva Malbec 2007, Mendoza
Good fruit concentration, edgy tannins, balanced acidity with moderate length. Shows some elegance but lacks complexity and sex appeal. Worth watching and certainly worth sipping.
Available for HK$145 at Moet Hennessy Diageo (tel: 2976 1888).
Debra Meiburg is a master of wine
