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Perfect match

Simon Tam

Stir-fried scallops with ginger and broccoli is a classic Cantonese dish. The bivalve has substantially more robust meat than does the 'fan back shell' variety, which has orange roe. Known in Hong Kong as the 'razor fish' (because of its sharp, jagged, triangular-shaped shell, which sticks out of the mud, where it sits to feed and filter out tidal water), the bivalve's sweetness is enhanced with ginger, which gives simultaneously lifted notes and warmth. Mixing broccoli into the dish adds colour and the tiny florets soak up the succulent juice of the scallop and ginger combination.

To further exaggerate the scallop's sweetness, a strong, salty dipping sauce, such as fermented shrimp paste or less-salty oyster sauce, is served with the dish. The dipping sauce gives a solid platform and contrast to the sea sweetness. An appropriate drink to serve with this dish would be one that has some savoury notes to add to the scallop's purity.

Pernod Pastis, France

This anise liquor is a French cultural icon, although its flavour is international. Pastis is used in many fish and seafood recipes, especially those from the sunny Mediterranean, but it goes especially well with the scallop dish's ginger notes. Serve the Pernod on ice and as the cubes melt, they'll change the flavour and colour profile of the pastis. The anise high notes and depth of richness contrast with, yet support, the sweetness of the scallop - it even shines happily with pungent fermented fish paste.

Available for HK$185 at Oliver's (tel: 2810 7710)

Perrier-Jouet Belle Epoque 2000, Champagne, France

Champagne with seafood is one of those positive matches that is easily understood and enjoyed. There is an intrinsic link between the savoury and complex flavours from the yeasty ageing process of the wine and the iodine freshness of the seafood. The more delicate the seafood texture, the better it is with high-quality champagne. This vintage is a good match for scallop with ginger and broccoli. The freshness of the chardonnay in the blend is supported by the ginger's vivacious lift and punch. The scallop's sweetness and salty tang are further massaged by the creamy silky gas, the bready pinot noir and yeasty age character. Complex fermented shrimp paste will give the dish a new dimension - it's better than oyster sauce, which may kidnap the champagne's complexity.

Available for HK$1,168 at Pernod Ricard (tel: 2398 3636)

Petaluma Hanlin Hill Riesling 2008, South Australia

Australian wine guru Brian Croser founded the Petaluma winery in the late 1970s. He did more than build a successful brand that was later purchased by a drinks giant, Lion Nathan; he deliberately set out to produce Australian quality benchmarks that befit his educational background. Petaluma riesling, winner of the best new world riesling award in the recent South China Morning Post-sponsored Cathay Pacific International Wine and Spirits Competition, is just such a benchmark. It is essentially a dry, late-harvest wine. The grapes from Clare Valley's Hanlin Hill vineyard are harvested at super-maturity, then, when fermented, the grape sugars are eaten by the yeast. It's a complementary drop to scallop and ginger - the freshness of both the wine and the scallops match seamlessly. The lean and directed flavour of the wine is widened by the ginger's spiciness and the scallop's succulence.

Available for HK$228 at Oliver's

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