Uncorked
Mention the Languedoc-Roussillon region of France at a party and you'll get mixed reactions. Three times the size of Bordeaux, Languedoc-Roussillon is either admired for its high-quality avant-garde wines, reviled for its lakes of cheap plonk or - in most cases - unknown. All quite surprising for a southwestern France wine region that's been growing grapes since before our spines were erect enough for us to hold a wine goblet. Languedoc-Roussillon produces more wine than any other French region and it's been suggested that it produced 10 per cent of the world's wine in the past century.
Languedoc-Roussillon is one of the few French wine regions where regulatory restrictions are still loosely defined and so it can play with a wide range of grape varieties, including the classic international ones (cabernet sauvignon and chardonnay, for example). Its real forte, however, are the Rhone Valley varieties, such as grenache, syrah, mourvedre, carignan and cinsault. Generic wines from the region are bottled as Pays d'Oc but several appellation designations have been granted in recent years, giving producers a stage for their talents.
Gerard Bertrand Chateau de L'Hospitalet, La Clape 2006
Gerard Bertrand is an increasingly important property in Languedoc, admired for its use of the Rhone varieties and its skill with mourvedre, a meaty, gamey variety that can be unbearably tannic if not well handled. Derived from grapes grown on the La Clape mountain range, this wine sports a solid core of bright blackberry fruit with floral notes. Comprising grenache, syrah and mourvedre, the blend's careful balance delivers interesting mid-palate boysenberry and loganberry fruit flavours. With medium-high levels of grainy tannins, the finish is quite dry, so sip this wine with food.
Available for HK$165 at Montrose Fine Wines (tel: 2555 8877)
Cuvee des Oliviers, Massamier la Mignarde 2006, Languedoc
Tarry, meaty fruit with minty, green herbal notes. A horsy scent suggests the presence of controversial yeast brettanomyces (aka brett), which leaves a farmyard aroma that some love, others loathe. This blend of grenache, syrah and mourvedre is bolstered by cabernet sauvignon, which may be responsible for its good structure and fine-grained tannins.
Available for HK$131 at Berry Bros & Rudd (tel: 2110 1680)
Coteaux du Languedoc, Domaine de Nizas 2004
A traditional blend of meaty, dense blackberry fruit with licorice accents. Very firm tannins and a hint of brett adding farmyard complexity. Needs to be opened for several minutes before drinking.
Available for HK$124 at Fine Vintage (tel: 2896 6108)
Debra Meiburg is a master of wine
