Perfect match
Steamed mussels in lemongrass, saffron and black peppercorn broth is a dish that was invented by yours truly - although whether anyone else had come up with it previously, I do not know. Most mussel preparations are predictable. This one takes three flavours often paired with the bivalve and combines them for an easy and palate-stimulating dish. The humble mussel is the perfect canvas for many flavours. Lemongrass can be extremely fragrant if not overcooked and the tender part of the spear gives a definitive crunch. Real saffron should be toasted lightly then powdered before use in broths. Black pepper is as aromatic as it is spicy; if you leave the peppercorns intact, you'll get more of the aroma than the heat. The broth should be balanced so it bounces nervously between these contrasting flavour notes with each mouthful.
Wine to accompany this dish should be honest and stable - the flavours need to flow smoothly from the beginning to the last drop. Freshness and good aromatics will also add to the mussels' complexity.
Te Mania riesling 2007, Nelson, New Zealand
Nelson has sunny skies, bays rich with seafood, gentle tributaries and national parks hidden amid mighty mountains. The region also makes great wines - almost all by family-run businesses. This Te Mania riesling is a worthy reflection of the land and a top example of the grape variety. It is delicate without lacking and has ample fragrant aromatics, making it a fine companion to the mussel dish. The succulence of the mussels is further enhanced by the wine's ample acidity and the aromatics in both mingle beautifully. The black pepper directs the combination and gives it unmistakable backbone.
Available for HK$110 at Links Concept (tel: 2802 2818)
Henschke Julius riesling 2008, Eden Valley, South Australia
Henschke is perhaps more famous for its Hill of Grace shiraz but in all honesty, everything from this winery is world class and stylistically beautiful. The wines have European hints but also loudly declare they are South Australian. This riesling is all about lime, with direct and pure flavours, which makes it a good match for mussels. With this pairing, the wine, rather than the mussels, is the canvas, and the aromatic spices add bright splashes of colour to the combination.
Available for HK$226 at Fine Vintage (tel: 2896 6108)
Schloss Vollrads Kabinett Riesling 2007-2008, Rheingau, Germany
This is, without a doubt, one of the world's greatest sites for noble riesling. The defined minerality of this delicious riesling is a wonderful background for the vivid lemongrass, sunny saffron and warming peppercorn. The length of the wine and its deliberate sweetness go a long way to adhere to the brininess of the mussels. The residual sugars also contrast with the salty tang, making it a more lively combination.
Available for HK$240 at Sinolink (tel: 2408 9338)
