Winemaker Corey Ryan of New Zealand's Villa Maria, once disparagingly quipped, 'Pinot grigio is a canoe. It's very close to water.' True, it can be argued that pinot grigio has all the flavour of tap water but, insipid or not, it has taken the market by storm. Virtually unknown a decade ago, it is now the second most popular white-grape variety in America and it's difficult to find a menu without pinot grigio on it.

In these days of exotically spiced, experimental, molecular cuisine, an innocuous, inoffensive, low-flavour wine can be a relief to the palate. Although not indigenous to the country, pinot grigio's century-long history in northeastern Italy has established the grape as the signature variety of Friuli and Alto Adige. Italians have long favoured white wines that are understated and tart, seen less as a beverage to savour and admire and more as a palate cleanser. Grapes are picked early to preserve this acidity and, consequently, alcohol levels are usually a tame 12 per cent.

Pull the cork on a pinot grigio right away as it is intended to be drunk in its youth. Sadly two bottles opened for this tasting had already turned an unsightly rusty colour. Pinot is ideal with seafood and is served in much the same way as French chablis or muscadet.