Uncorked
While Australia's Hunter Valley wears the tiara for the new world's finest semillon, Western Australia has carved out an unexpected niche for semillon-sauvignon blanc blends. This unlikely combination has had little success elsewhere, except on its home turf of Bordeaux, France. Even there, the combo only excels in Pessac-Leognan, prime vineyard space carved out of the Graves appellation, famously known as the home of Chateau Haut-Brion and its beloved red wine peers.
Western Australia is increasingly taming sauvignon's tendency to reek of green pepper and the lawn mower. At the same time, the region's deft winemakers are harnessing the complexity of semillon to give the wines power and elegance. When young, semillon can be easily confused with sauvignon blanc but, with time, the variety develops entrancing lemony beeswax, toasty and honeyed flavours.
Were Estate is located in a high-quality subregion of Margaret River, called Wilyabrup (Willy-uh-bruhp), which is always a delight to pronounce. The estate was recently founded but has already begun to catch the attention of Australian wine connoisseurs, such as Western Australia's foremost reviewer, Ray Jordan. Established on a former equine stud farm, the estate's cellar door is the former flat of the strapper, the apprentice who looked after the horses. Winemaker Clive Otto, formerly with Vasse Felix, was named winemaker of the year in 2005 by WineState magazine.
Were Estate semillon sauvignon blanc 2008 (pictured)
Pale in colour, with lime-tinged glints, this harmonious, well-integrated wine will keep you coming back for more. Dried sage and beeswax scents show off this light-footed wine's classic semillon and sauvignon blanc pedigree. Persistent and lengthy, with savoury spice on the finish.
Available for HK$150 at Montrose Fine Wines (tel: 2555 8877)
Umamu Estate semillon sauvignon blanc 2005, Margaret River
A pale straw colour, with seductive, clean minerally fruit crafted in the style of classic white Pessac-Leognan. Developing the complex hay, beeswax and lanolin characteristics of mature semillon. Acidity is a touch sharp and the wine's faint tannin textures suggest it should be served with food.
Available for HK$180 at Onereddot (tel: 2408 8320)
Barwick Estates White Label semillon sauvignon blanc 2008, Margaret River
Pale lemon in colour, with gentle, citrus, herbal, gooseberry and passion fruit. This light-bodied wine is fresh, vibrant and youthful but drink it soon as it lacks the weight and concentration to age. An excellent seafood match, especially with fresh oyster.
Available for HK$88 at Castello del Vino (tel: 2866 0577)
Three Hills Eva Marie semillon sauvignon blanc 2006, Margaret River
Medium gold in colour, dried herbal and smoky hints, with a round, full body. This toasty, gamey number demands roasted white meat or full-flavoured seafood dishes such as Portuguese bacalhau.
Available for HK$240 at Limestone Coast Wines (tel: 2817 1625)
Debra Meiburg is a master of wine
