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Our managing editor mops his bathroom for the seventh (OK, third) time as he eyes his looming departure. Photo: Brian Rhoads

Penny’s Bay diary: 14 cups of coffee, 7 PCR tests, 2 loads of laundry and a partridge in a pear tree – Hong Kong quarantine by the numbers

  • The Post’s managing editor takes stock and sets his countdown clock as his time at the government facility draws to an end – just in time to switch to a hotel room
  • Christmas, however, comes early, as the arrival of a free pizza warms cockles and restores faith in humanity
South China Morning Post managing editor Brian Rhoads recently flew home to the United States to attend a memorial service for his late father. After he had already left, the Hong Kong government moved the US into a new high-risk category, meaning he will spend the first of his three weeks of quarantine at the government’s Penny’s Bay facility. Over the next seven days, he will recount his experience. You can read about Day 5 here.
From a strictly epidemiological standpoint, my week-long stint in the isolation ward of one of the world’s most restrictive coronavirus quarantine regimes has been a success. From an individual standpoint, on my seventh and final day at Hong Kong’s Penny’s Bay centre, it will be a pleasure to see the back of this place.

Testing upon arrival at the city’s once bustling but now eerily sleepy international airport catches the bulk of Covid-19 cases at the border, regularly snaring a half-dozen or so passengers daily who are infected with one or another variant of Covid-19, the latest being the rapidly spreading Omicron.

The second line of defence, for all passengers from countries on Hong Kong’s highest-risk tier – like the United States, from which I arrived – is a week in compulsory confinement and daily testing in the Penny’s Bay government centre.

Penny’s Bay staff drop by for yet another PCR swab. Thankfully, it will be among the last. Photo: Brian Rhoads

If they haven’t caught a passenger with Covid-19 by then, two more weeks in a hotel and more testing ensnares virtually all the other cases among travellers. (The government adjusted the policy to four days at Penny’s Bay, 17 days at a hotel this week, though only for new arrivals).

This ultra-strict blockade has effectively prevented local coronavirus outbreaks and allowed Hongkongers to maintain some semblance of normalcy amid the global pandemic. With some guidelines – wearing masks and using the “Leave Home Safe” app to check in to pubs, for example – we are able to go to work in our offices, dine in restaurants, drink in bars, shop in stores and go to the cinema. We do all this more or less free from the worry of getting infected.

A group of Cathay Pacific employees that has been dropping off comfort items for air cargo crew members took pity on our managing editor and gave him a pizza. It was appreciated. Photo: Resistance Deliveries

But if you are one of those taking one for the side in quarantine, it’s a slightly less upbeat experience. There is much to be desired when you are the solo traveller facing the gauntlet of confinement, monotonous food and playing the testing guinea pig in a 16 x 8 cage for a week, without the benefit of a hamster wheel to exercise.

The numbers quickly start to stack up in a week. That’s seven PCR tests or 28 swabs – two pokes for counts of 10 up each nostril and two separate swabs on each side of the inner throat each day. That’s 21 airline meals delivered to your door, and about 35 bottles of water, some of which for me went into 14 cups of coffee.

Water bottles pile up in quarantine, about 35 to be exact. And yes, we’re counting that half-hidden bottle of Johnnie Walker as water. Photo: Brian Rhoads

There were also seven swept and mopped floors (OK, OK, maybe it was three). Two loads of handwashed laundry taking 60 hours each to dry in the cool damp Hong Kong winter – perhaps assisted by the first typhoon signal in December in 47 years.

There would have been 27 sets of high-intensity workouts, but one twisted ankle put a stop to that. And so instead there was 1,000ml of Scotch. (Ahem: Meted out over a week, not all at once).

In my previous 21-day hotel quarantine stay, I received six text messages with negative PCR results within 24 hours of testing. I have received zero such texts at Penny’s Bay, so the only way I know I’ve tested negative is that they have not hauled me off to a government hospital yet.

Laundry does not air-dry quickly during Hong Kong’s winter, unless you consider 60 hours for one load quick. Photo: Brian Rhoads

After release from here, we’re not even done with quarantine. I still must complete the remaining 14 of 21 days in isolation at a government-designated hotel in Aberdeen on Hong Kong Island.

The testing continues in the hotel and, presuming two tests per week and one for good measure the week after I get out, I will have been swabbed for PCR tests a grand total of 13 times between December 13, the first in Los Angeles, and January 10, the last in Causeway Bay.

There will be three public holidays in lock-up. Like my fellow passengers who arrived on December 16, I will be wishing myself a Merry Christmas and a Happy New Year in another cell, albeit a much more pleasant one in a hotel. Boxing Day is in between.

Our managing editor’s countdown clock is officially up and running. Photo: Brian Rhoads

Finally, I enjoyed one extraordinary act of kindness at Penny’s Bay. On Day 6, a pizza was delivered to my door with a note from a group of Hong Kong volunteers from Cathay Pacific who have been providing relief to air flight, cabin and air cargo crew members who have found themselves in compulsory quarantine at Penny’s Bay after being exposed to Covid-19.

The group, called Resilience Deliveries, drops off “comfort items, including food, snacks, mattress pads and proper-sized towels. We also help crew feel that they are not abandoned during a stressful time”. You can check out their Instagram page here.

Serving 23 others in Penny’s Bay, they threw in a pizza for me, a heartfelt gesture that cut through the gloom of being pent up alone during the holiday season.

Meanwhile, as my parole nears, there’s still time to play a medley of Johnny Cash’s Folsom Prison Blues, Elvis Presley’s Jailhouse Rock and the Band’s I Shall Be Released a few more times before I’m sprung from Penny’s Bay tomorrow.

Up next: Off to my halfway house in Aberdeen.

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