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French President Emmanuel Macron reclines on a sofa, the top four buttons of his white shirt undone to reveal a full pelt of dark chest hair - an image that saw social media users compare him to Sean Connery and Tarzan. Photo: Soazig de la Moissonnière

How the Macron vs Le Pen fashion war mirrors their election contest, as both use style choices – and one his chest hair – to swing the tides of battle

  • Emmanuel Macron’s recent photo where he shows off his chest hair in an unbuttoned white shirt was done in a bid to appeal to younger voters, some pundits say
  • Right-wing Marine Le Pen knows she needs to appeal to the centre, which she is trying to do by looking presentable and serious but also feminine

Female presidential candidates nearly always make headlines for their fashion choices but male ones rarely do, a fact that can irritate women running for office. During the current election season in France, however, it has been Emmanuel Macron who has dominated the sartorial coverage.

Backstage at an election rally last weekend – after he had won the first round of voting – the current French president reclined on a biscuit-coloured sofa, the top four buttons of his white shirt undone to reveal a full pelt of dark chest hair. Social media immediately lit up with the images, with Twitter users comparing him to Sean Connery and even Tarzan.

I’m not sure if Macron is quite Bond-worthy, but it was a surprisingly out-there look for a president known for looking sleek and neat, but rarely head-turning.

Pundits have said that these behind-the-scenes photos were released in a bid to appeal to younger voters ahead of the second round of the French presidential elections this Sunday. Usually, Macron is found in tailored navy or black single-breasted suits, worn with immaculately starched white shirts and one-colour ties.

Marine Le Pen and Macron before the start of a live face-to-face televised debate on French public national television on April 20, 2022. Photo: AFP

With this election being fought during a cost-of-living crisis by an incumbent who has been accused of being the “president of the rich”, the ever-savvy Macron has responded by purging anything that might be deemed luxurious. That means au revoir to his beloved Cartier Tank watch and bonjour to €400 (US$430) suits from Parisian tailor Jonas & Cie.

“French politicians want to be stylish but they also don’t want to stand out,” says Paris-based suit designer Charles Sébline, who has a new collection arriving on Net-a-Porter this month.

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“I don’t think any of the clothes British politicians wear could work in France, for example: it’s a totally different sartorial language. Personally, I think Macron’s ties and shirts are good, but the lapels of his suits are too small. Overall though, I think he’s playing it just right in these troubled times.”

Not that this pared-back aesthetic has helped Macron avoid all criticism. A French designer I spoke to described him as looking like an Air France steward in his neat suits, while a journalist friend based in Paris said that a recent picture of Macron unshaven and in a hoodie taken the week after Russia invaded Ukraine was far too studied for her liking.

Amusingly, when Macron wore a fitted black T-shirt in a video last year, Twitter users were horrified. “He disrespects the great history of this country,” one woman said, appalled by a garment she saw as unbefitting a French president. She had clearly never seen British Prime Minister Boris Johnson out for a run.

Emmanuel Macron in a CPA 10 hoodie at the Elysees Palace in Paris.

Generally, though, French leaders dress in a stylish but unobtrusive way that is a rarer sight in Britain or even America. Presidential candidate Eric Zemmour – when he was still in the running – covered up his alarmingly far-right views with respectable grey suits and wire rimmed glasses; glasses that one French website alleges were props. This was in contrast to British anti-immigration candidates like Nigel Farage, who like to signal their patriotism through flat caps, three-piece suits and even the occasional flag-of-England waistcoat.

Zemmour, however, received only a fraction of the right-wing vote and it is Marine le Pen who will face Macron this weekend. She can no longer hide behind Zemmour’s outrageousness to cover up her own controversial positions on issues like immigration and the European Union.

To win the election, Le Pen knows she needs to appeal to the centre. Much like Zemmour, she does this by trying to appear as outwardly respectable as possible.

Le Pen during a campaign visit to Saint-Rémy-sur-Avre, northwestern France, on April 16, 2022. Photo: AFP
Le Pen campaigns in Saint-Pierre-en-Auge, in Normandy. Photo: AP

Fashion-wise, this means looking attractive and presentable and largely adhering to the following uniform: neat navy, white or red jacket; collarless silk blouse in peach, cream or grey; pegged trousers; and heels. She is careful to look serious but also feminine – thereby appealing to her conservative base – with soft make-up and lightly curled hair.

In her campaign advertisement, she wears a coral jacket matched with light pink lipstick in some shots, and a glossy camel coat in others. On Wednesday night’s crucial debate – which attracted an audience of millions – she wore a simple pale blue silk top with a dark jacket.

“All past leaders, from Louis XIV to Napoleon, have used costume to create legitimacy for their power,” explained Samir Hammal, a constitutional professor at the Paris Institute of Political Studies, to The New York Times. “But Marine Le Pen is one of the best.”

Macron arrives before his TV debate with Le Pen on April 20, 2022. Photo: AP

He went on to argue that her outfit choices could be a tool to help legitimise a party that under her father was still seen as highly anti-Semitic, racist and xenophobic. To many it still is, but for the 23 per cent of people who voted for Le Pen in the first round, the face of the National Rally has clearly changed.

However, since then, Macron’s lead over Le Pen has already widened to 10 points and he is likely to win the election – proof, perhaps, that a touch of the Sean Connery hairy chest never did a politician any harm. After all, if sex is going to sell anywhere, it would be in France.

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