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A model walks the runway during the Hermes ready-to-wear autumn/winter 2023 fashion show as part of Paris Men’s Fashion Week in January. Womenswear will continue taking cues from men’s catwalk looks this year. Photo: Victor VIRGILE/Gamma-Rapho via Getty Images

4 women’s fashion trends for 2023 seen in menswear runway shows, from layered knits to leather gloves, and how to style them at home

  • Last month’s men’s fashion week in Paris offered clues to the direction androgynous styling will take in 2023, with an eye to practicality
  • Consider layering textured knits, play with collar shapes and colours, accessorise with a scarf, or add depth and texture to sleeveless looks with opera gloves
Fashion

We have all seen a version of the peak 2022 outfit – a blazer, baseball cap and big trousers – worn by celebrities “running errands” and posing all over social media.

While the look, featuring relaxed tailoring and Oxford shirts, has no sell-by date, last month’s men’s fashion week in Paris offered insight on how the androgynous style will be given a new lease of life in the year ahead.

Menswear and womenswear borrowing from each other is not new, but the lines between the two are more blurred than ever.

From street style to online commentary to editorials, it is hard to deny menswear’s impact. Fashion week only proved that. “[The] fashion showcase does stay true to classic menswear principles: good quality fabrications, sourced from reputable mills and innovative pattern cutting,” says Richard Biedul, creative director and menswear model.

A model walks the runway during the Egonlab show as part of Paris Fashion Week on January 17, 2023 in Paris. Photo: Getty Images

Call it recession dressing, or pin it to the normalisation of gender-fluid fashion – but, in 2023, there is greater interest in quality and practicality when it comes to dressing. If last year was about wardrobe staples, then recent collections hinted at a re-envisioning of how we style them.

Here are four trends insiders spotted in January and tips on how to incorporate them into your existing wardrobe.

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All about the collar

The small but mighty collar may be all you need to revamp a wardrobe favourite for 2023.

“The collar, although a small detail, is an important element of any considered outfit and can either form a symbiotic or singular relationship with the outerwear layer,” says Biedul. He points that, as an example, that designer Christophe Lemaire often keeps everything within the same colour palette and softly tailored.

A Lemaire women’s autumn/winter 2023 look. The label’s designer, Christophe Lemaire, often keeps everything within the same colour palette and softly tailored, says Richard Biedul, creative director and menswear model. Photo: Lemaire

“The [shirts] and their collars are all similar shades or tones to the outwear, or the same. It is often cut from the same [fabric] as the outerwear and will follow the same dimensions as any outer lapel, creating a subtle relationship between the two.

“A collar can also be cut in a shape that does not echo the outerwear. [Complementary or] contrasting fabrication can be structured if the outerwear is louche, and vice versa. It’s this juxtaposition for me that creates the interest.”

Keep it simple: start with a cohesive base, such as an all-black outfit, and raise the collar. Pair two shapes on top of each other – a round collar and a sharp collar, for example – for something more defined.

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Experimental layering

From Bode to Giorgio Armani, the men’s runways called for getting experimental with your layering. Lean into the utility aspect of menswear dressing and embrace the practical by swapping out your blazer and light polo neck combo for layered knitwear.

To avoid feeling drowned in too many layers, focus on textured knits instead of chunky fabrics – or pair chunky fabrics with oversized outerwear. Dress up the look with a coat and blazer, and layer lapels for a high-contrast look.

If you are used to experimental layering, wear the same type of garments on top of each other: tanks over long-sleeved shirts à la Givenchy, or hang your Oxford shirt from your waist to create a skirt-like silhouette, as seen at Egonlab.

The Hermès show as part of Paris Fashion Week on January 21, 2023 in Paris, France. Photo: Getty Images

Do be a square

Sometimes you just need that one special accessory to tie an outfit together, and the square scarf’s versatility makes it a year-round staple.

Fashion influencer Tiffany Lai plays with form to add variety to the accessory, styled on the runway around the neck, across the shoulders and over the head.

“I love tying scarves around my neck: loosely like a necklace or tightly in a stewardess style,” she says. “It also allows me to utilise my wardrobe more efficiently and it’s a simple way to update my wardrobe to fit the latest trends without consuming more every season.”

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To style a scarf, fold it into a triangle and tie it around your neck, finishing it off with a knot at the front.

Opt for a minimalist take on the look by creating the illusion of one cohesive piece. Take a page out of Hermès’ playbook by matching your scarf to your Oxford shirt and tuck it underneath the first button of the shirt.

While subtle, the sharp collar of a button-down shirt makes this easy change look high-effort.

A look featuring leather opera gloves on the Rick Owens runway. Photo: Getty Images

A hands-on approach

Opera gloves trended in 2022 in fabrics like satin and tulle, but 2023 features a more wearable take on the statement piece. Swap synthetics for materials such as wool, leather, cotton or cashmere, as favoured by Allegra Shaw and Shirin Soltani of Canadian apparel brand Uncle Studios.

Regardless of your choice of fabric, Shaw and Soltani say the accessory is the “perfect way to add depth and texture to sleeveless looks” and combat the notion that women’s accessories are frivolous.

Pair elbow-length gloves with short-sleeved garments of the same colour to create a cohesive statement look, or pair darker-toned gloves with a bright base to create contrast and draw the eye.

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