What is it like to keep on creating beautiful garments when you are not sure you will live another day? Or to represent your country during international fashion weeks when your team – many members of which are now refugees – is scattered around the world?

A number of Ukraine’s fashion designers continue to represent the country on international runways as the horrors back home continue.

We speak to seven about how they’re carrying on, their inspirations, and what they would like shoppers and followers to take away from their work.

1. Bevza

Dakota Johnson, Sophie Turner, Rosie Huntington-Whiteley, Kendall Jenner, Bella Hadid – it’s hard to name a stylish female celebrity who hasn’t been seen wearing Bevza.

The refined minimalism and sharp tailoring that’s become the trademark of Svitlana Bevza, the label’s founder and designer, has made the brand a must-see at New York Fashion Week since 2017, though this season she doubled up with a presentation in Paris.

“By showing my collections at NYFW, I am presenting the visual codes of Ukraine and [engaging] a dialogue with the world,” Bevza says.

“Our cultural heritage and history are a part of every collection, and now they too convey the tight emotional connection with our homeland that we are proud to feel.”

Examples are abundant in Bevza’s work: she often references elements of ancient Trypillia culture, which dates back to 5000BC and covered substantial parts of modern-day Ukraine, while a headpiece worn by the Ukrainian duchess Olga, who lived in the 10th century, served as a base for a balaclava style the brand debuted a few seasons back.

One must also mention the “wheat spikelets”, the brand’s signature jewellery motif, which it has fashioned in a now-iconic “burnt” style since the full-scale invasion began.

2. Bobkova

Having launched her namesake brand in 2000, Kristina Bobkova is known for her architectural designs that play with Japanese-inspired cuts while giving subtle nods to Ukrainian traditions.

For her spring/summer 2023 collection, Bobkova drew inspiration from chestnut trees – an unofficial symbol of Kyiv, Ukraine’s capital, where her atelier and production are still based. She also explored an antique technique used to create jewellery beads by baking them in furnaces based in Ukraine’s western Ternopil region.

“So many women [on] my team have their husbands, brothers, sons at the frontline now, so it was crucial for me to keep the business running and support them by saving their jobs,” she says.

Showcasing the brand abroad “is yet another chance to speak about Ukrainian traditions”, Bobkova says.

While the designer has witnessed a boost in support for local talent, she adds that “not all the buyers are ready to take risks and order from Ukrainian brands during [the] war”.

One can only hope this changes in seasons to come.

3. Gasanova

“Every time a Ukrainian brand dresses a celebrity, it is a great reminder to the world … that Ukraine is resilient, unbreakable and that everyone here is working towards our victory,” says Elvira Gasanova, whose namesake brand, Gasanova, is celebrating its 10th anniversary this year.

In spite of everything, Gasanova is successfully building an international network of stockists. Drawing inspiration from iconic fashion personas, she creates a classy yet fun wardrobe fit for modern aristocracy.

Her designs, showcased during New York Fashion Week, have been worn by the likes of Gigi Hadid, Kourtney Kardashian, Bebe Rexha, Paris Hilton and none other than the First Lady of Ukraine, Olena Zelenska, who Gasanova praises for supporting Ukrainian brands.

4. Kseniaschnaider

In 2016, designer couple Ksenia and Anton Schnaider whipped up a pair of whimsical asymmetrical jeans they named “demi-denims”. What was originally created just for fun promptly went viral and propelled their brand towards global recognition.

Kseniaschnaider has been creating ready-to-wear fashion with a focus on sustainability, innovative technology and original design since 2011. Denim remains the duo’s most recognisable category; recently, they showcased playful upcycled sportswear and a so-called “denim fur” textile.

The brand presented its latest collection in London in February, as a part of Ukrainian Fashion Week’s efforts to cooperate with international platforms.

“We have used this opportunity to remind the world yet again about the reality of war and the need for humanitarian aid,” Ksenia Schnaider says.

The couple held a Ukrainian flag at the end of the show, and the collection earned the brand an uptick in global recognition and business offers.

5. Litkovska

By fusing subtle femininity with masculine silhouettes, Lilia Litkovska has grown a strong global base for her eponymous brand, which has shown during Paris Fashion Week since 2017.

The designer is known for playing with strict tailoring and sensual cuts, which she implements in her ready-to-wear collections as well as her artisanal line.

The latter embodies her values: leftover fabric swatches and archive pieces are reworked by local craftswomen using century-old wooden looms in Western Ukraine’s Carpathian Mountains. This serves to breathe new life into the old while preserving ancient techniques.

The brand’s latest show at Paris’ Le Grand Rex cinema adorned the building’s facade with a Ukrainian flag and the slogan “From the War Zone with Peace”.

“The spirit and resilience of the Ukrainian people, which I am proud to belong to, has been my biggest discovery over the past year,” Litkovska says.

“Speaking with a global audience about Ukrainian culture and fashion, whilst using this focus of attention to remind them of our warriors, is our way of fighting.”

6. TG Botanical

Seventeen years ago, Tetyana Chumak launched Tago, one of Ukraine’s first mass-market brands that later evolved into a chain of stores named TG.

During the pandemic, Chumak worked on her family’s farming business and used it as an opportunity to reflect – not just on her own roots, but on the fashion industry and sustainability.

She developed a new fabric made from nettle, flax and hemp, which became the foundation for TG Botanical, a brand marrying nature and technology.

Though the Russian invasion severely affected Chumak’s business – her family’s fields in the Kyiv region, which produced fabrics for the brand, were set on fire – she continued to show her collections at Copenhagen Fashion Week.

In August 2022, TG Botanical had its first catwalk show in Copenhagen and was named a finalist for the Zalando Sustainability Award, which Chumak says spoke volumes on the global industry’s support for Ukrainian talent.

“It is not just a friendly gesture, because to qualify [for the contest] we had to meet 18 sustainability standards,” Chumak says. “It is our way to show Ukraine through our product, its history and innovations.”

7. Theo

Known for its functional urban-inspired design, Theo creates genderless pieces that marry minimalistic cuts with structural outerwear.

The brand is led by Theo Dekan, who managed to keep its Kyiv-based operations up and running while some team members fled the country.

“These times helped us to understand that creativity, enthusiasm and a loyal team can overcome any obstacles and become stronger in every meaning,” Dekan says.

“People fled to different countries, everything stopped, yet despite this, we have found the strength to keep on going and creating.”

At New York Fashion Week in autumn 2022, Theo mounted a digital show of its “Self Identification” collection.

The format of the presentation, which used LIDAR (light detection and ranging) visual processing technology, was a comment on how the media’s representation of the ongoing war has been very fragmented.

“We wanted to show that actual war looks very different from what people see in the media,” Dekan says.