Hunan Bistro is a modern, sleek space on the cusp of Causeway Bay and Wan Chai. The pictorial menu is extensive and lists some of our favourite Hunan dishes, including lots of innards, as well as a few things we weren’t familiar with.

Fish head with yellow and red chillies (HK$248), recommended by the owner, was our favourite dish. The fish head, cut into smaller, manageable pieces, instead of served whole (as it often is) had plenty of tender flesh and gelatin-like collagen in a sauce that looked fiery, but was just spicy enough so we were able to drink the flavourful liquid.

The pork intestines in hotpot (HK$168) was more dangerous: the fresh and dried chillies hid in the wrinkles and folds of the intestines, waiting to sear the throats of unwary eaters who didn’t carefully pick them out. The intestines were tender and had been cleaned thoroughly to rid them of any funky flavours, and the plentiful amount of onions cooked with them were sweet and soft.

Pork knuckle with preserved vegetable (HK$138) was a nice variation on the dish that is usually made with pork belly (although that is available too). The knuckles had been simmered long and slow so the meat easily pulled away from the bone and the skin and fat were soft.

Stir-fried sausage (HK$168) was fatty, intense and peppery, and we should have ordered steamed white rice to go with it.

Steamed diao fish with soybeans and pepper (HK$88) was the only dish we didn’t like: we didn’t expect such intense, funky flavours.

Changsha rice noodles (HK$68) and an off-menu item of stir-fried celtuce (HK$78) were non-spicy dishes that calmed our palates.

Hunan Bistro, 409 Lockhart Road, Causeway Bay, tel: 2788 0897. About HK$250 without drinks or the service charge.

While you’re in the area