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Beef brisket noodles at Hong Kong restaurant Sister Wah remind Mongolia native Saruulgerel Enkh-Amgalan of home. The steakhouse chef shares his other go-to spots in the city, for ramen, dumplings, and more. Photo: Instagram/@makanterusss
LifestyleFood & Drink

Where a Mongolian chef in Hong Kong goes for ramen, momo dumplings, dim sum, Russian food, and beef noodles that remind him of home

  • Saruulgerel Enkh-Amgalan, head chef at newly reopened Tango Argentinian Steakhouse, loves Asian food and dishes that remind him of home in Mongolia
  • He shares his go-to takeaway spot for beef curry rice and where he eats beef noodle soup, dumplings – pierogi and momos – squid ink ramen and beef Wellington
Food and Drinks
Andrew Sun
Andrew Sun
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Mongolia native Saruulgerel (Eggi) Enkh-Amgalan is head chef of the newly reopened Tango Argentinian Steakhouse in Central, Hong Kong. He spoke to Andrew Sun.

Compared to other Asian foods, Mongolian food is very plain. We don’t have high-end seasonings, vegetables and spices. In summer, we consume lots of dairy products.

We drink milk tea seasoned with salt, which people find quite odd. Mongolians also consume a lot of meat, either boiled or roasted, with root vegetables. In winter, because it’s so cold, we eat hot foods like noodle soup and steamed dumplings.

I was in TV and broadcasting previously, then went to visit relatives in England. There, I found a job washing dishes in an Argentinian restaurant. That’s where I first had a chance to try steak and seafood.

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It was a new experience and I loved it. Since then, I have been connected with Argentinian restaurants.

I love Asian foods. Often, I want a nice noodle dish or ramen. A favourite is Butao Ramen (69 Wellington Street, Central. Tel: 3189 1200). Every time I go I order the same thing: ramen in black-garlic-infused squid ink soup.

Butao Ramen, in Hong Kong’s Central neighbourhood, is a favourite of Enkh-Amgalan. Photo: Jonathan Wong

Whenever I feel homesick and want something similar to Mongolian food, I go for slow-cooked beef brisket noodles like at Sister Wah (13A Electric Road, Tin Hau. Tel: 2807 0181). It’s a very small restaurant. In addition to braised beef noodles, I get the spicy pork dumplings.

Mongolian food has some influences from neighbouring Russia, so I enjoy Russian and Eastern European-style cuisine. Ivan The Kozak (1/F, Parekh House, 63 Wyndham Street, Central. Tel: 2851 1193) has really nice pierogi that are like our fried dumplings.

The restaurant also has a drink called kvass, similar to a raisin juice I drank as a kid. It brings back childhood memories for me.

Dumplings at Ivan The Kozak, a Ukrainian restaurant in Central, Hong Kong. Photo: Instagram/@burgerwong_foodiaryhk
For dim sum, the one place I like to go is the Metropol Restaurant (4/F, United Centre, 95 Queensway, Admiralty. Tel: 2865 1988). It’s good for a group with friends and family. It’s a very fun place. You can enjoy all kinds of dim sum, even crispy duck. I really enjoy the beef rice rolls there.

As a chef, I spend most days in the restaurant so I hardly ever cook at home. On days off, I do have a couple of quick takeaway places. A favourite is Bao Dim Tat Yan (various branches including 12 Stone Nullah Lane, Wan Chai). I always order the beef brisket curry with rice.

Another favourite food of mine are momos, Nepalese steamed dumplings. One sit-down place I go to enjoy them at is Fusion Kitchen (2 Nanking Street, Jordan. Tel: 2321 0067). I used to work with the chef there. The restaurant has a very friendly, happy atmosphere.

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Obviously I love steak. If I want to enjoy good beef somewhere else, I would go to Alto (31/F, V Point, 18 Tang Lung Street, Causeway Bay. Tel: 2603 7181). It has a nice skyline view and the beef Wellington is a signature.

In the Mongolian capital, Ulaanbaatar, one thing I really enjoy – I know it’s not Mongolian – is Mexican food at La Rosa Tapas & Tequila Bar (SB District, Chinggis Avenue 17, Ulaanbaatar. Tel: +976 9952 7672). It has really good tostadas, tacos and a good selection of drinks.

For Mongolian cuisine, Modern Nomads (several locations including Baga Toiruu, in front of Metro Mall, Sukhbaatar District, Ulaanbaatar. Tel: +976 1131 8744) is what I suggest for a good selection of traditional and fusion-style foods.

You could also try any guanz, tiny eateries in Mongolia that do homestyle cooking, like steamed dumplings, fried noodles and snacks. It’s Mongolian fast food.

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