The roast at Kam's Kitchen is good enough to give you goosebumps
It's almost impossible to avoid comparing Kam's Kitchen with Yung Kee. The latter, of course, is the iconic roast goose restaurant in Central — a multistorey place where the higher you sit, the more VIP you're considered, so the food (reportedly) gets better.
Kam's Kitchen was opened by descendants of the founder, after a battle for control split the family. It probably isn't even a quarter the size of one floor of Yung Kee. The menu is shorter, and the tables are closer together. But based on our meal, you don't have to be a VIP to have a great feed.
It would be silly to eat here without ordering the roast goose (HK$238 for half), which was moist, with papery-thin soft skin, just enough fat and a rich flavour.
The restaurant excels at Cantonese classics. Shrimp toast (listed on the menu as "fried bread with prawns", HK$28 each, minimum order of two) was a good version, with crisp, bread that wasn't oily, and fresh prawns. Oysters with ginger and green onion (HK$198) came sizzling in a clay pot. The oysters were sweet and plump, and came with plenty of fragrant ginger and spring onions.
Braised goose webs with mushrooms (HK$148) were fantastic. The large goose feet had been cooked long and slow, so the skin and tendon were soft but were not falling apart.
The mushrooms were huge, thick and meaty and soaked up rich, delicious sauce. Sweet and sour pork (HK$88) isn't the cheat's version using ketchup and pineapple juice; this one was more tart than usual, and was flavoured with hawthorn and pickled ginger.
We ended the meal with fried rice with goose dripping (HK$108), which was so good I had two bowls, even though I was full. It was expertly cooked, so it had great (breath of the wok) fragrance, the grains of rice were separate and not clumped together, and it was studded with bits of goose meat.
