CNY Bar review: Signature drinks inspired by a classic rock or pop track and served on coasters imitating a vinyl record, at Hong Kong’s Central
- CNY Bar’s take on espresso martini is inspired by Rage Against the Machine’s classic “Wake Up” while Wine Red No Kokoro is inspired by Kōji Tamaki’s smash hit
From the hip-hop vinyl spinning at Frank’s Italian American in Central to the wide variety of throwback genres played at Wan Chai’s Kuromaru, to Potato Head’s open-secret music room in Sai Ying Pun, fine tipples and tunes are increasingly a thing in the Hong Kong bar scene. CNY Bar is men’s lifestyle group Stinky Gentlemen’s take on this burgeoning trend (the bar’s name is a play on the romanisation of the group’s Cantonese name).
When we first enter the 12th-floor establishment, we’re immediately greeted by the sultry notes of John Coltrane through JBL wall-mounted speakers and McIntosh amplifiers. Although the current music selection is still being finalised and curated digitally, we’re assured CNY will host vinyl nights on Tuesdays and Thursdays from 6pm to 8pm.
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The focus on music continues in the menu as each signature drink is inspired by a classic rock or pop track, and served on a coaster imitating a vinyl record.
For wine lovers, the Wine Red No Kokoro (HK$180) is inspired by Kōji Tamaki’s 1999 smash hit of the same name and uses sake, cranberry juice and orange brandy liqueur to enhance the body and richness of a red wine base – fortifying the flavour against Japanese straw smoke.
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Rage Against the Machine’s 1991 classic “Wake Up” inspired CNY’s take on the espresso martini (HK$160). It combines beef jerky-washed Wild Turkey bourbon with espresso, coffee liqueur and kokuto syrup, with shrimp roe and tonka bean as garnishes. The roe’s umami increases as the drink’s condensation rehydrates it, cutting into the espresso’s refreshing acidity.
Overall, CNY’s concept is reasonably well executed despite the chaotic diversity of the Stinky Gentlemen portfolio – which also covers coffee, branded loungewear and potentially a luxury garage as its next concept. However, the brand’s eye on exclusivity could be the bar’s undoing. The drinks, while decently executed, are priced closer to the likes of World’s Best Bar stalwarts Argo, Darkside or Quinary. We are told that a members-only access model may be on the horizon – whether all of this adds prestige to the existing appeal, or thins out its pool of patrons, only time will tell.
12/F, Foco, 48 Cochrane Street, Central
