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Language Matters | Why Asia’s wet markets are being unfairly targeted in bad pandemic press

  • The term achieved notoriety after a Wuhan market was blamed for the coronavirus outbreak
  • Asia’s establishments have been suffering from inaccurate associations with wildlife trade

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Stalls at a wet market in North Point, Hong Kong. Photo: SCMP / Roy Issa

Wet markets have been getting undeserved bad press since a Wuhan market was named ground zero for the Covid-19 pandemic. They have been condemned as homes to wild animals and hotbeds of disease.

A wet market – as is well understood in Asia – is none of these, but simply a market for the sale of fresh meat, fish, vegetables and fruit. Some markets also traditionally allowed the slaughter of live animals on site, but this was banned in places including Hong Kong and Singapore following the bird flu outbreaks of the 1990s.

Such markets are considered “wet” for two reasons: they trade perishable “wet” goods rather than durable “dry” goods such as grains, household products, fabric and so forth (although some wet markets do have stalls selling grains and legumes).

In Cantonese, sap fo, literally “wet goods”, refers to fresh producewhile gon fo, or “dry goods”, encompasses everything from tinned goods to dried seafood and Chinese herbs. These markets are also literally wet with water from melting ice used to keep seafood fresh and the regular hosing down of stalls, and possibly with the blood of slaughtered animals, if any.

These establishments are a vital everyday source of food, which is reflected in local languages. In the Malay-speaking world, they are called pasar pagi, where pasar means “market”– originating in the Persian bāzār, meaning bazaar or marketplace, and spreading via trade routes, likely reaching Indonesia via the Hindi bazar ). Pagi, meaning “morning”, suggests early opening hours, as opposed to pasar malam (“night market”), which caters for leisurely after-dinner entertainment.

Lisa Lim
Lisa Lim is Associate Professor in the School of Education at Curtin University in Perth, having previously held professoriate positions at universities in Singapore, Amsterdam, Sydney and Hong Kong, where she was Head of the University of Hong Kong's School of English. Her interests encompass multilingualism, World Englishes, minority and endangered languages, and the sociolinguistics of globalisation. Books written by Lim include Languages in Contact (Cambridge University Press, 2015) and The Multilingual Citizen (Multilingual Matters, 2018).
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