avatar image
Advertisement
PostMag
Life.Culture.Discovery.

The small town that sparked a lifelong love of China: memories of teaching English in Anji, Zhejiang, where Crouching Tiger, Hidden Dragon was filmed

  • Before she was Lonely Planet’s China editor, Megan Eaves lived in Anji, a small town far from any tourist trail, where she worked as an English teacher in 2006
  • ‘Small towns are wonderful everywhere … but I’ve never felt so connected to a community as while living in small-town China,’ she writes

Reading Time:5 minutes
Why you can trust SCMP
5
Anji in Zhejiang province, China. Megan Eaves lived in the small town, where she worked as an English teacher, in 2006, an experience that sparked a lifelong love of China. Photo: Megan Eaves

One of my most vivid memories is of riding a fixed-gear bicycle through the streets of Anji, a town in northern Zhejiang province. It was 2006 and I had moved to China to take a job as an English teacher at a public vocational college. It was my first time living in China and I was completely hooked.

I had been given the bike by my school. It was painted ice blue with the words “Royal Voyager” written on the frame. It had a basket on the front, which I often filled with vegetables or groceries, or sometimes fast food, which I ate during severe bouts of homesickness. Most mornings, I pedalled a few streets from my apartment to the school, where I was the sole foreign teacher.

The scene was always a chaotic maze of pedestrians, cyclists, motorbikes, mopeds, tricycle rickshaws, taxis, cars, microvans and truck-like contraptions that came in varying shapes and sizes, often sputtering thick, black smoke.

One of these home-made trucks – which looked like it might have originally been a minivan, with a bed haphazardly cut into it – was used by a vendor who set up shop on one particular corner. In the summer, the truck was full of cantaloupes and watermelons with curling stems; in winter, there would be great bags of kumquats or stacks of leafy da baicai – Chinese cabbage. All of this produce was grown in and around Anji – the five-mile diet was simply a way of life.
Megan Eaves in Anji, Zhejiang province, in 2006. Photo: Megan Eaves
Megan Eaves in Anji, Zhejiang province, in 2006. Photo: Megan Eaves

Small towns are wonderful everywhere in the world – in part because a quality of life and a closeness to other people and nature can be, indeed needs to be, maintained – but I’ve never felt so connected to a community as while living in small-town China.

Megan Eaves is a travel author, editor and dark-sky advocate. She formerly served as Lonely Planet's North and Central Asia editor and she has written guidebooks to China, Central Asia, South Korea and Tibet. She also often writes about stargazing and the night sky, hiking, walking and beer.
Advertisement