“Now more than ever, Western audiences are paying attention to prevention. Ayurveda focuses on the root cause rather than just treating the symptoms [which is why] we are seeing the world starting to adopt this powerful practice,” says Michelle Ranavat, founder of skincare and hair line, Ranavat.

“Ayurvedic lines tend to have a more natural focus and this falls in line with the search for clean beauty,” adds Farida Irani, founder of Subtle Energies, available worldwide at high-end spas in hotels such as the Mandarin Oriental.

Traditionally, Ayurvedic treatments are tailored to a specific person depending on their individual body constitution or dosha. As such, many skincare brands develop their formulations around these types, which is not only confusing to the uninitiated but alienating for audiences unfamiliar with Ayurvedic principles.

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These newer brands, however, are giving Ayurvedic skincare an update by taking tried and tested traditional ingredients, and repackaging them into easy-to-use formulations with cutting-edge skincare advancements and technologies. Contemporary branding and fun marketing on social media have made them all the more appealing and accessible.

“After having my two sons, I experienced significant post-partum hair loss and dull skin. I turned to my South Asian roots and started to use ingredients like saffron on my skin. The results were incredible, but the only place I could purchase them was in a grocery store. I personally want to see a luxurious version of Ayurveda accessible to everyone,” says Ranavat, whose eponymous label started online and is now available in Sephora in the US.

“The biggest challenge is striking a balance between age-old formulas and modern advancements. We always want to do our best to honour the tradition, but it is important to add our formulation expertise and use clinical science to prove their effectiveness,” she adds.

Ranavat’s bestsellers speak to this philosophy and include the Brightening Saffron Serum, a lighter version of a traditional formula, which contains five grams of saffron per bottle and is made in copper vessels in India over an 18-day period. Also popular is the Fortifying Hair Serum featuring amla, a powerful antioxidant, which is extracted using modern techniques that are heat- and chemical-free to keep the nutrients intact.

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Australia-based Subtle Energies also takes a fresh approach to Ayurveda, developed by Irani, who has been an Ayurveda practitioner and clinical aromatherapist for several decades.

“We have modernised [our approach] by marrying the principles and philosophies from Ayurveda with aromatherapy – specifically flora-pharmacy – which comes from the Vedic pharmacopoeia. Traditional Ayurvedic formulas are effective, but they aren’t always acceptable to the consumer in terms of smell or feel. We are making it more user-friendly while harnessing the powers of aromatherapy,” she says.

When the line was first launched in 2010, Irani created a series of aromatic oils using essential oils made from Ayurvedic ingredients. These were designed to be massaged into the body using a technique she calls “aromatic dressing”, so that the user benefits not only from the oil’s ingredients but from the ritual of applying them as well.

More recently the brand has made a foray into space with the launch of new products that feature traditional tinctures such as ashwagandha and brahmi alongside skincare ingredients such as collagen. These are then combined using technologies such as fermentation to enhance their bioavailability and efficacy. For example, the Vegan Collagen serum – which the company says performs better than marine collagen – features proteins that mimic human collagen along with vitamin-rich ashwagandha.

While these formulas are pushing Ayurvedic skincare into the spotlight, its main allure still lies in its effective ingredients, many of which are staples in Indian homes and pantries.

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Top performers include saffron, thanks to its potent antioxidant properties that help reduce the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles. Turmeric is a great option for addressing inflammation, dark spots and hyperpigmentation. Neem, known for its antimicrobial and anti-fungal functions, can help repair the skin, making it suitable for sensitive complexions. Then there’s mogra, or Indian jasmine, which also soothes the skin, aiding cell renewal and hydration. Irani also highlights 24k gold which she says can improve blood circulation, promote cellular energy, and stimulate collagen production.

With so many different ingredients to choose from, experts believe Ayurvedic skincare has the potential to become a stand-alone category in the future.

“Green chemistry is an exciting field. I studied Ayurveda in 2001 so my education informed my decision to create a skincare line from rare ingredients that were abundant in the Himalayas,” explains Kavita Kohsa, founder of Purearth.

“Indian senna polysaccharides outperform conventional hyaluronic acid results in clinical studies. Saffron pollen outperformed homosalate – the most widely used chemical sunscreen blocker in the US. I could go on and on citing research, but more funding needs to be dedicated to Ayurvedic pharmacognosy, then we can unlock its real potential,” she says.