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Was après ski fashion the original stealth wealth style? From Princess Diana and Brigitte Bardot to Gwyneth Paltrow and Mariah Carey, nothing screams quiet luxury like a well-attired winter holiday

Retro styles are all the rage on and off the slopes this winter as the après ski scene channels icons and looks of the past, such as these from Snowmass, Colorado, in March 1968. Photo: Getty Images

Photographer Slim Aarons famously said he made a career out of “photographing attractive people doing attractive things in attractive places”. Today his shots from the 1950s and beyond continue to help define après ski chic: Fair Isle jumpers and muffs, the feeling of having earned your fondue and mulled wine after a day of vigorous, wholesome fun on the snow. What could be more alluring?

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Diana, Princess of Wales in a Head ski suit during a skiing holiday in Malbun, Liechtenstein, in 1985. Photo: Princess Diana Archive/Getty Images

Certainly plenty of luxury brands think so, many of them dabbling with winter gear for on and off the slopes. In recent years this has included a Miu Miu 2021-22 winter collection unveiled in the Italian Dolomites – “The clothes are not romantic but the spirit is,” designer Miuccia Prada said of her collection – and capsule collections from the likes of Gucci, Dior, Prada and Tory Burch. The ultimate chalet chic though surely came with Karl Lagerfeld’s last autumn/winter 2019-20 collection for Chanel, staged in a mock alpine village of fashion dreams.

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Inspiration for après ski style abounds. There’s Slim Aarons photos from Gstaad circa 1970, of course, and Princess Diana in her bright red jumpsuit in the 80s (“the original ski style influencer”, according to British Vogue). Definitely you could include everything Gwyneth Paltrow wore at her civil court trial in Utah for allegedly crashing into a retired optometrist while skiing in Deer Valley in 2016 – she and her The Row chunky turtleneck sweater and coat won the day.
Perfect Moment jumper. Photo: Handout

Contemporary labels such as Perfect Moment cross the nostalgia factor of ski style with fashion girl cred with retro-inspired jumpers with slogans such as “piste” and “ski” in block colours. That said, there’s still plenty of appetite for vintage ski fashion, says Johnny Valencia, owner of Los Angeles boutique, Pechuga Vintage where celebrities often pick up après ski pieces.

“ I love apres ski, ironically, living in Los Angeles,” he says. “And I love stocking après ski pieces at Pechuga. My favourite moment in this fashion category has to be Gwen Stefani in the Dior Rasta boots. We actually owned Gwen’s boots for a while until they sold,” he adds.

Magda Butrym Apres Ski collection boots. Photo: Handout

“We stock a lot of Dior by John Galliano. The Dior ski boots are always very popular and we actually facilitated a pull for Kim Kardashian’s Skims après ski-inspired collection. We also love stocking Chanel ski pieces. Mimi Cuttrell (Gigi Hadid’s stylist) purchased a pair of Chanel gloves from us earlier this year for Gigi to wear in Aspen.”

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When it comes to trends in après ski style, Valencia says the puffer jackets from Dior Globetrotter collections are stand-outs, as well as ski masks from the likes of Dior, Gucci and Chanel from 2001. The continued resurgence of Y2K fashion, he says, means Mariah Carey’s ski looks of this era are the ultimate inspiration.

Liane Wiggins, head of womenswear at Matches, says there are a slew of chic, versatile and practical options on the market for looking the part – whether your preferred ski holiday is scoring double black runs or sipping hot chocolate by the fire.

Alex Eagle Sporting Club at Matches. Photo: Handout

“If you are heading for a relaxing evening spa or cosy dinner in your chalet then opt for a pair of Alex Eagle Sporting Club Berwick luxe joggers and style with a long cashmere cardigan from Raey. Go head-to-toe tonal in soft neutrals with matching accessories and shearling lined boots from Prada, Brunello Cucinelli or – a new brand to Matches – Inuikii. Varley also offers some great pieces for this type of look,” she says.

“Alternatively, buy into the Birkenstock x Tekla collaboration and style one of the shirts with a great cashmere pant, or one of the cotton pants with a tank from Loewe or Flore Flore, cashmere socks and the Birkenstock x Tekla shearling-lined sandals. I also love the Khaite Fair Isle-knit sweaters for styling this look.”

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Raey coat at Matches. Photo: Handout

As for what to wear for a glamorous evening out at altitude, Wiggins says now is the time to invest in a statement coat or cape that you can wear beyond the mountains.

“If you are going out to a dinner or party in the evening, invest in a gorgeous cape to layer over your party outfit to stay warm. The Row’s longline cape or Raey’s cashmere-blend cape would look fabulous styled over an evening gown. Alternatively, a shearling longer-length coat is a perfect ski resort coat,” she says.

Actress Brigitte Bardot in a poncho, in France, circa 1960. Photo: Gamma-Rapho via Getty Images

“We have some amazing versions right now from The Frankie Shop, Raey and Yves Salomon. In terms of gowns, opt for a long sleeve option for total winter glamour from Taller Marmo, Erdem, Andrew GN, Valentino, Saloni or 16 Arlington. There are some amazing options with feather and crystal embellishments.”

As for Wiggins’ ultimate après ski icon?

“We always look to Brigitte Bardot’s vintage slope looks for glamorous inspiration with a sportier edge. We love her après style too,” she says.

Fashion
  • Slim Aarons’ famous 50 photos helped popularise apres ski fashion – a spirit emulated by icons from Gwen Stefani in her Dior Rasta boots and Gigi Hadid in Chanel
  • Today brands from Dior and Gucci to Kim Kardashian’s Skims, The Row, Perfect Moment and Erdem are offering slope-ready capes, coats, gloves and boots