What it’s like to ride Belmond’s Eastern & Oriental Express: newly reopened in 2024, ‘Asia’s most luxurious train journey’ steams along Malaysia’s Jungle Railway on the way to Penang
It’s sunrise – seven in the morning – and I’m wrapped in a dressing gown, sipping a steaming cup of coffee in the open-air observation car of the Eastern & Oriental Express. From this vantage point, I watch tranquil vistas of rural Malaysia roll by, a scene made all the more delightful by the company of new-found friends met during the trip.
That is, until I joined “Asia’s most luxurious train journey” last month. Run by experiential travel company Belmond, the Eastern & Oriental (E&O) took us on a three-night adventure departing from Singapore, before winding through the jungles, paddy fields and plantations of Peninsular Malaysia.
The Eastern & Oriental Express reopened in 2024
After a four-year hiatus, the E&O returned to the rails in February following a glamorous facelift, offering a choice of two routes exploring Malaysia’s great outdoors.
I’m on the Wild Malaysia itinerary, which means riding the Jungle Railway north though the peninsula’s interior to historic Gemas and the primordial jungles of Taman Negara, then doubling back to the more travelled line up the western coast, heading north to Kuala Lumpur and the cultural mosaic of Penang, before the homeward leg back again down the coast to Johor.
Besides the LVMH-owned Belmond in Southeast Asia, Thai hospitality group Anantara has launched a private, custom-designed carriage that takes guests on a six-hour journey between Anantara Hoi An Resort to Anantara Quy Nhon Villas in Vietnam daily, while celebrity-favourite Aman has an exclusive train carriage that transports guests from Jakarta to Amanjiwo aboard the Kereta Api Wisata.
Why is the Eastern & Oriental Express so famous?
The Eastern & Oriental Express was launched in September 1993 as the first train to transport passengers between Singapore and Bangkok. The storied history of the name is reflected in the beautiful design and finish of its carriages, originally built in 1971 in Japan for New Zealand’s Silver Star sleeper train, and extensively refurbished two decades on.
Today a total of 15 carriages – including eight sleeping cars, two restaurant cars, a bar car and the observation car – offer accommodation divided into three cabin styles: cosy Pullman Cabins with twin beds, slightly more spacious State Cabins, and the indulgent Presidential Suite, which offers free-flow champagne throughout the trip.
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What’s it like aboard the Eastern & Oriental Express?
Pulling out of Singapore’s Woodlands Station, I settle into my State Cabin – more spacious than I’d anticipated – as a welcome announcement invites guests to sit back, relax and enjoy the scenery.
My immediate scenery is a mix of sophisticated cherrywood and elm burr panelling, decorative marquetry and fine fabrics. The room comes with a generous sized en suite shower and bathroom but, maintaining its nostalgic charm, it eschews modern amenities like TVs or phones. In case I’m in need of assistance, I’m to simply press a bell in the room – just like the old days.
Over the next three days, I discover that life on the train is remarkably social, even for those journeying solo. As evening falls, guests dressed to impress, head to the Piano Bar Car to watch performers themselves in Gatsby-esque 1920s garments. We listen to Grace Leon, saxophonist Farid, Janet Lee of the Shang Sisters, and pianist Yudi Yap accompanied by Cher Siang. There’s even a magician to entertain us on the first night.
Meals aboard are a glamorous affair, especially dinner. Ladies enter in designer dresses, feathers and diamonds, paired with heels – the train’s hallowed hallways becoming catwalks – while men opt for sharply turned out tuxedos and suits.
We exchange stories each night, bonding over chef André Chiang’s culinary masterpieces. These include soy-glazed coulant with Wagyu meatball and truffle yam, and crowd-pleasers like shrimp and clam miso bisque, Penang duck curry and laksa bouillabaisse, each meal paired with an wide array of wines, spirits, cocktails and non-alcoholic beverages. I’m frankly awestruck by the chefs’ ability to prepare such intricate food in such petite, rolling kitchens.
When not mingling over meals, we’re discovering more of Malaysia together on excursions. On the second day, at Taman Negara National Park, we bounce around jungle trails in open-top jeeps, hearing from conservationists working to protect the endangered Malayan tiger. Other guests opted to explore the area’s caves or join a nature photography masterclass.
On the third day, we arrive in Georgetown via the Penang ferry, to explore local markets, then take a ride up Penang Hill to a boutique hotel where we have a cooking class, learning Indian and Peranakan teatime recipes. There’s also an engaging art tour or the option to explore Georgetown independently.
As the sun rises on the fourth morning, I join my fellow travellers in the observation car, lulled by the gentle rocking of the train as we head south to Johor, sharing talk of journeys past and those to come one last time. With familiarity, it’s now easy to slip into half-believing you are back in Agatha Christie’s time – never has her famous novel felt more real or more timeless.
What to pack to fit in aboard the Eastern & Oriental Express
Ralph Lauren Collection Mallorie pleated chiffon trousers
Louis Vuitton Rivage sandals
Top by In The Mood For Love
Earrings by Suzanne Kalan
- Agatha Christie’s Murder on the Orient Express made overnight train travel exotic, and taking a luxury ride along Malaysia’s Taman Negara National Park evokes the bygone era of the classic mystery novel
- Sleeper trains are the trending sustainable way to travel – with the Venice Simplon-Orient-Express the ultimate in luxury, while other options include the British Pullman, the Royal Scotsman and even trips through the Peruvian Andes and to Machu Picchu