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Why is China obsessed with luxury brands? Status-conscious buyers still covet Hermès, Chanel, Dior and Louis Vuitton – and scholars say it’s because of the absence of traditions and rapid urbanisation

Experts say that China’s obsession with luxury brands stems from a lack of traditions. Photo: Reuters

Consider this: the country’s luxury market is set to hit 816 billion yuan, or US$115 billion, by 2025. That’s a quarter of the global total, according to a February report by accounting firm PwC.

In comparison, the US and Europe could each represent 22 per cent and 23 per cent of the global luxury market by 2025, PwC wrote in the report.

Pedestrians pass a billboard for Yves Saint Laurent in Chongqing, China. Photo: Bloomberg
It’s such an important market that even Bernard Arnault – the CEO of French luxury conglomerate LVMH and the richest man in the world – is set to visit the country this month following a share slump.
Traditions provide identity. As CCP has destroyed Chinese traditions, luxury brands step in to provide that
Desmond Shum, author

Behind the country’s luxury boom is Chinese buyers’ quest for “identity” in the absence of traditions, says Desmond Shum, the author of a contentious book titled Red Roulette, An Insider’s Story of Wealth, Power, Corruption and Vengeance in Today’s China.

A woman cleans the floor in front of a Chanel luxury boutique at the IFC Mall in Shanghai, China. Photo: Reuters

In a lengthy tweet on Friday, Shum – whose rags-to-riches story “vaulted him into China’s billionaire class” according to the book’s blurb – said he spoke with an unnamed “leading authority of global luxury industry” who shared insights about China’s love for all things luxury.

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“He said China is the most fertile ground for luxury brands. Because CCP has destroyed traditions, religions in China, and Chinese are socially competitive and status-conscious,” Shum wrote. “Traditions provide identity. As CCP has destroyed Chinese traditions, luxury brands step in to provide that,” he further wrote, citing the unnamed expert. “That bag tells themselves and the society around who they are.”

The tweet has almost 500 likes and has been viewed over 140,000 times since being posted.

Shum and his publisher, Simon & Schuster, did not answer a request for comment, so we don’t know who’s his unnamed source, but we did speak to several other luxury experts about the link between the CCP’s destruction of Chinese traditions and its luxury boom.

Those [Chinese] people feared that the policy was going to change overnight, so they were incredibly keen to turn their hard-earned money into products as quickly as possible
Karl Gerth, University of California

The Chinese consumer culture is a “melting pot” of values

“China’s consumer culture has been moulded by a melting pot of values,” Pierre Xiao Lu – a professor at Shanghai’s Fudan University specialising in luxury marketing research – wrote in a Wharton report back in 2011.

Author of Red Roulette, Desmond Shum writes that the CCP has destroyed Chinese traditions and luxury brands step in to provide identities. Photo: AFP

During the post-reform period, the country’s flat socialist structure suddenly “opened up vertically”, Lu wrote.

This was particularly evident in the 1980s, when China decided that a “much easier and a quicker way to develop the economy was to shift rural populations into cities”, said Karl Gerth, a professor of history at the University of California, San Diego.

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Chinese people’s obsession with luxury brands is the result of many factors, including rapid urbanisation and consumerism. Photo: Getty Images

Rapid urbanisation and consumerism did more to fuel China’s luxury boom than a lack of religion, he said. “For people living in the cities, it’s harder to communicate to other people who you are. You’re no longer part of a clan that knows exactly what your family is. So you have to communicate that to other people in different ways – that another way is through the consumption of mass-produced branded stuff.”

Gerth is also the author of a book called Unending Capitalism: How Consumerism Negated China’s Communist Revolution.

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Customers wait in long queue to enter the Hermès store on its opening day in the David Plaza in Zhengzhou city, central China’s Henan province. Photo: Weibo

China’s new private markets made a “whole bunch of people rich very quickly” and fuelled a huge boost in consumption, Gerth said. “Those people feared that the policy was going to change overnight, so they were incredibly keen to turn their hard-earned money into products as quickly as possible.”

Now, the choice of brands is not just a part of wanting an identity. It also creates a distinction among Chinese consumers, said Yuwan Hu, an associate director at Beijing-based Daxue Consulting.

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Status-conscious China is a fertile ground for luxury brands. Photo: Reuters

In China, mature luxury buyers differentiate themselves from entry-level buyers by showing their understanding of the luxury market. For example, the discerning consumer would go for popular brands such as Hermès, Chanel, Dior and Louis Vuitton, she said.

“That’s more important than searching for identity,” she added.

This article originally appeared on Insider.
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  • Desmond Shum’s contentious new book Red Roulette claims that China’s luxury boom stems from buyers’ quest for ‘identity’ in the of absence religions and traditions eroded by the CCP
  • Scholars argue that rapid urbanisation and consumerism did more to fuel China’s luxury goods obsession, as mature buyers use brands like Hermès, Chanel and Dior to project worldliness