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5 biggest timepiece moments in July 2023: from Wimbledon champ Carlos Alcaraz’s Rolex Daytona and Cristiano Ronaldo’s Chrono24 investment, to Bulgari’s marble watch and Louis Vuitton’s new Tambour

Carlos Alcaraz takes home the top prize at Wimbledon sporting a Rolex Daytona; Bulgari’s all-marble tourbillon Octo Finissimo; Cristiano Ronaldo became the newest investor in reseller Chrono24; and Louis Vuitton’s new steel Tambour. Photos: @carlitosalcarazz, @tim_stracke/Instagram; Handout
We’ve reached peak summer, and while we’ve already covered what type of watches you should own for the season elsewhere, the horological world continues to buzz with even more activity.
We’ve spotted high horology pieces on the court and sidelines of Wimbledon, while upcoming events include the Only Watch auction in Geneva, and the Vicenzaoro watch and jewellery fair in Venice. Cristiano Ronaldo just became business partners with Bernard Arnault by investing in online watch reseller Chrono24, and Louis Vuitton splashed out by releasing a new, serious steel Tambour – while cutting 80 per cent of its current line of timepieces.

Read on for our biggest timepiece moments of July.

1. Tennis and watch greats at Wimbledon

Carlos Alcaraz of Spain celebrates on the club balcony after winning the men’s singles final match against Novak Djokovic of Serbia at the Wimbledon Tennis Championships in London, Britain, on July 16. Photo: Xinhua
Spanish tennis phenom Carlos Alcaraz made headlines by taking home the top prize at Wimbledon by defeating his idol Novak Djokovic.

Meanwhile, Czech player Markéta Vondroušová became the first unseeded player to triumph in Wimbledon on the women’s side, besting Ons Jabeur in a decisive fashion. Though Vondroušová went watchless for her big win, it was pieces like Alcaraz’s yellow-gold meteorite dial Rolex Daytona that made the weekend for us, almost as much as the tennis.

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Former football player David Beckham (centre) applauds in the stands during the men’s singles second round match between Novak Djokovic of Serbia and Jordan Thompson of Australia at the Wimbledon tennis championship in London, Britain, on July 5. Photo: Xinhua
Established stars watching the tournament from the stands brought their horological A-game, too. David Beckham’s relationship with Tudor is well-known, but the global icon’s choice of the gold and green Black Bay 58 was perfect for Wimbledon in particular. Meanwhile, Brad Pitt’s love for Vacheron Constantin was on full display as he sported a vintage 222 in steel.
Britain’s Catherine, Princess of Wales (left) applauds as Switzerland’s former tennis player Roger Federer (centre) and his wife Mirka listen to Britain’s Andy Murray’s speech after winning his men’s singles tennis match against his countryman Ryan Peniston on the second day of the 2023 Wimbledon Championships at The All England Tennis Club in Wimbledon, southwest London, on July 4. Photo: AFP
Daniel Craig stayed true to his iconic former role in a blue suit with an Omega Seamaster Planet Ocean GMT “Good Planet”, while long-standing Bond successor front runner Idris Elba went for the understated Gucci 25H.

Other former grand slam champions showed up in force, too: Djokovic wore a Hublot Big Bang Integrated Green Ceramic while the Federers flexed Rolex – a gorgeous blue Sky-Dweller for Roger and a diamond-and-emerald Day-Date for Mirka.

2. CR7 buys into watch reseller Chrono24

Chrono24 CEO Tim Stracke and Cristiano Ronaldo. Photo: @tim_stracke/Instagram
Where celebrities befriend and become ambassadors for high horology brands, Al-Nassr FC forward Cristiano Ronaldo can do them one better as he recently announced his investment in luxury watch reseller Chrono24. The company also counts LVMH head Bernard Arnault as one of its investors via Aglae Ventures, which took part in Chrono24’s US$118 million Series C funding round in 2021.

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Chrono24 CEO Tim Stracke and Cristiano Ronaldo will work together. Photo: @chrono24/Instagram
Both Chrono24 and Ronaldo stress the investment as an extension of Ronaldo’s watch collecting enthusiasm. The highest-paid athlete in the world naturally owns pieces with some of the largest price tags in the world, including the US$2 million Girard-Perregaux Planetarium Tri-Axial and the US$1 million Jacob & Co. Grand Baguette Diamond, which contains a total of 761 baguette diamonds on the case and dial.

3. Louis Vuitton goes high horology with its new, sleek Tambour

Louis Vuitton Tambour Automatic, 40mm in steel with blue dial. Photo: Handout

Watches might not immediately spring to mind when it comes to Louis Vuitton, but this month the maison shocked the world of horology as it announced the upcoming release of a sleek, new design for its Tambour collection and an initiative to cut 80 per cent of its current watch line-up.

Louis Vuitton is traditionally known for its more intricate Tambour pieces, such as this Tambour Opera Automata – Bian Lian from March this year. Photo: Louis Vuitton
It takes gumption for a fashion brand to move away from pieces that are visual-first – LV itself released the intricate Tambour Opera Automata based on Sichuan Bian Lian opera as recently as this March.

But the new 40mm Tambour is set to come in humble steel, steel-and-gold and solid gold. The move is reminiscent of – and should see success similar to – Bulgari and its own move into the integrated steel watch space with the Octo Finissimo, which exists in contrast to its jewellery-inspired watches like the Serpenti.

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Louis Vuitton Calibre LFT023 automatic movement, developed with Le Cercle des Horlogers. Photo: Handout

On the vintage-inspired sector dial of the new Tambour, two hands tell the time with a subdial for seconds, and there are Arabic numerals for only the even numbered hours – a subtle but significant Bauhaus touch.

Most importantly, Louis Vuitton has called on Le Cercle des Horlogers to co-develop the LFT023 in-house movement for the rather thin 8mm release. It’s an understated release, but a radical new direction for Louis Vuitton – and we can’t wait to see more.

4. Automata, dress watches and other new releases

Jaquet Droz Dragon Automaton Sapphire – Lapis Lazuli. Photo: Handout

Louis Vuitton is not the only maison to release quality pieces this month. Jaquet Droz also pivoted from an intricate March release (The Rolling Stones Automaton) to the only slightly simpler Dragon Automaton Sapphire with a continuous piece of lapis lazuli for the dial – a rarity to be sure. Gucci also recently released the subtle and ultra-thin 25H, which Idris Elba wore at Wimbledon.

A. Lange & Söhne Lange 1 Time Zone. Photo: Schimschar
Elsewhere, high horology houses continue to play to their strengths. Audemars Piguet released 37mm gemset variations of the Royal Oak Offshore as the iconic piece continues to celebrate its 30th anniversary, while Baume et Mercier released a new Valjoux-powered Riviera chronograph featuring a sandblasted titanium bezel and sun-satin finished slate grey dial with gold accents. A. Lange & Söhne also released two stellar pieces, with a highly accessible and sturdy updated Lange 1 Time zone, and the ultra-complicated 1815 Rattrapante Perpetual Calendar.

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5. Enthusiasts and brands show up for charity as events continue to resume

Bulgari Octo Finissimo Tourbillon Marble for Only Watch 2023. Photo: Handout

As the resumption of global watch events only continues to accelerate, watch enthusiasts were given a lot to chew on in July. At the beginning of the month, steam picked up as lots were announced for this year’s Only Watch charity auction in November, which sees a set of ultra-rare pieces from high horology juggernauts.

Gerald Genta “Mickey Mouse” for Only Watch 2023. Photo: Handout

Bulgari is giving us an Octo Finissimo Tourbillon made entirely of marble; Gérald Genta makes its debut to the charity auction by marking Disney’s 100th anniversary with a Mickey Mouse watch; Richard Mille unveils its Talisman Origine tonneau sautoir watch; Tiffany & Co. puts up an also-sautoir Bird on the Rock piece; and Urwerk are building what essentially looks like a timekeeping lightsabre.

Meanwhile, numerous high horology houses are giving one-off versions of their famous collections to raise funds for research on Duchenne muscular dystrophy.

Tiffany & Co x Richard Mille Talisman Origine for Only Watch 2023. Photo: Handout

Elsewhere, the Vicenzaoro watch and jewellery fair looks to resume in Venice, with the VO’Clock Privé watch lounge opening to the public in September.

Last but not least, Watches and Wonders has announced that its next Geneva fair will take place from April 9 to 15 in 2024. Those dates are a little bit later than usual, but we’re just glad we have both the Geneva and an upcoming Shanghai fair to look forward to.
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Timepieces
  • Wimbledon saw plenty of celebrities flashing watches, like David Beckham in Tudor, Brad Pitt in Vacheron Constantin, Daniel Craig in Omega and Idris Elba in Gucci – while the Federers flexed Rolex
  • Cristiano Ronaldo just became business partners with Bernard Arnault by investing in online watch reseller Chrono24, while Louis Vuitton marks a radical new direction with a serious steel Tambour