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Gold chains never get old: from Kate Middleton to Jay-Z, everyone loves a chunky necklace, with luxury brands like Bulgari, Chanel, Gucci and Louis Vuitton all honing in on 2024’s enduring jewellery trend

Rapper Jay-Z is just one of many hip-hop artists to embrace heavy gold jewellery, the latest in a long line of elites over the ages to do so. Photo: Redferns via Getty Images
You might not immediately link the Princess of Wales’ style with that of LL Cool J and Jay-Z. But the near-universal appeal of a chunky gold chain necklace has seen it worn by everyone from inhabitants of ancient Babylon to Coco Chanel, Henry VIII to Jackie Kennedy Onassis – and of course just about every hip-hop star on the planet.
Rapper Cam’ron wearing Avianne & Co.’s Harlem World piece in 2006. Inspired by Brian De Palma’s Scarface, it includes a motor-operated spinning globe and a battery-operated stop light. Photos: Handout

The earliest examples of gold chain necklaces are thought to date back to around 2,500BC in Babylon and they were also worn by the Greeks, Romans and Ancient Egyptians, mostly as a sign of status and wealth.

Ana Khouri x Christie’s crystal necklace with green tourmaline

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Since then, the gold chain necklace has never really gone out of style, though it has had particularly shining moments. Take Bulgari’s high glam curb chain necklaces of the 70s and 80s, or the incredible pieces by jeweller, sculptor and artist Ana Khouri presented at Christie’s Paris earlier this year, crafted from yellow gold set with chunky gemstones such as a 5.32-carat fancy intense natural pink diamond.

Louis Vuitton Deep Time Rupture necklace

Another highlight from this year’s high jewellery collections was the Rupture necklace in Francesca Amfitheatrof’s bold (and supercool) Deep Time collection for Louis Vuitton. A three-strand choker, it included a gold curb chain set with a triangle-cut Sri Lankan sapphire of 13.81 carats; a rivière of brilliant-cut zircons, Earth’s oldest gemstones and another of 15 Mexican opals. Each strand can be detached and worn separately.

Amfitheatrof, meanwhile, who likes to break the “rules” of jewellery, also created Tiffany & Co.’s modern classic HardWear collection when she was artistic director at the blue-chip American jeweller.

Gucci Marina chain – as at home in the water as on dry land

Chunky chains were spied on the autumn/winter runways at Chanel and Schiaparelli in recent seasons and other fashion houses such as Rabanne and Balenciaga also have striking options. To mark Sabato de Sarno’s much-anticipated debut as creative director of Gucci in September, the Italian fashion house released the campaign for its Marina Chain jewellery collection starring model Daria Werbowy poolside wearing chunky gold chain pieces.

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Meanwhile, the likes of Donald Glover, Katie Holmes and Jennifer Lopez are just three of the celebrities to be seen sporting a gold chain necklace in recent months.

A piece from Los Angeles-based jeweller Suzanne Kalan’s Block Chain collection

Los Angeles-based jeweller Suzanne Kalan’s new Block Chain collection uses an 18k gold choker to bring an art deco aesthetic to the gemstone-led pieces.

“The collection is a homage to the baguette diamond, a shape that has always captivated me with its unique three-dimensional, elongated form. Driven by this fascination, I designed a series of both solid and hollow rectangular blocks, artfully interconnected to create a truly distinctive collection,” she says.

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“What I adore about chain pieces is their universal appeal. They’re incredibly versatile and suit individuals of all genders and ages. There’s an inherent, understated elegance in chains, particularly in the way I design them. Whether it’s a necklace or bracelet, these pieces lend themselves easily to layering, harmonising perfectly even with pieces from our other collections,” she says.

Marie Lichtenberg chain necklace

Kalan has noticed that her clients tend to like wearing their chain pieces with other pieces.

“My clients tend to love the layering possibilities that chain pieces offer. They often stack them with tennis bracelets, necklaces and even bangles to create a curated look. Of course, the chains also exude effortless chic when worn solo, whether it’s beside a watch or as part of a coordinated set. The versatility of these pieces keeps our clients coming back to enrich their collections over time,” she says.

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While the length and heft of a chain necklace is a personal preference, Tanika Wisdom, senior buyer at online luxury retailer Matches, says that when it comes to how to wear a chain necklace this year, the vibe is all about amping things up.

“Maximalist jewellery is the perfect way to easily uplift a more pared-down look but equally looks great with bold prints and colours – it all depends on your mood and personal style,” she says.

Lauren Rubinski gold chains

“We have seen customers gravitate towards chunky necklaces across different price points. Lauren Rubinski’s chain link necklaces continue to be bestsellers for us alongside By Alona and Joolz by Martha Calvo from our fashion jewellery category. Statement and bold accessories are such an effortless and timeless way to update your everyday look.”

  • From Ancient Egypt to Henry VIII, Coco Chanel to Jackie Kennedy, J.Lo and more hip-hop artists than we can ever name, gold chains have endured as the ultimate jewellery power play
  • Francesca Amfitheatrof put a modern spin on Tiffany & Co.’s Hardwear range, Schiaparelli and Balenciaga are setting golden trends, and even hip designers Ana Khouri, Suzanne Kalan and Martha Calvo are emboldening the OG statement piece