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Nature-inspired high jewellery earrings stole the spotlight in 2023, from Tweed de Chanel’s tribute to Scotland to Dior’s floral Les Jardins de la Couture and Le Jardin de Chaumet

Ear candy: stunning high jewellery earrings that stole the spotlight from bracelets and necklaces in 2023 – with Dior, Gucci, Chanel, Piaget, Chaumet and Graff all inspired by nature. Pictured: Le Jardin de Chaumet collection, Magnolia earrings and necklace. Photos: Handout
Earrings are having their moment in the sun in 2023, with high jewellery brands unveiling stunning creations that dare to steal collectors’ attention away from evergreen rings, bracelets and even necklaces. From cascading designs to ear cuffs, the pieces from this year’s big collections are setting trends, introducing bold new works of art that might even turn heads.
There is seemingly no limit to what high jewellery artisans can create with white gold and precious stones, and the experts at Chanel have managed to translate the softness of fabric into the Tweed de Chanel collection. Tweed was introduced into the maison’s designs in the 1920s, during Coco Chanel’s affair with the Duke of Westminster, and it has since become an iconic fabric for the brand. The 63 pieces in Tweed de Chanel pay homage to the Scottish fabric, Chanel’s life during that time, and other symbols that the maison is famous for, including the much-loved camellia flower.

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The camellia and tweed come together in the Tweed Petále earrings featuring strands of diamonds and pink sapphires set in rose gold. Each earring has two rose gold camellias positioned among the diamonds, with the stones set in a rectangular design suggestive of tweed, while the pink sapphires are an additional nod to the camellia.
Gucci’s Allegoria high jewellery collection.
A pair of earrings from Gucci’s Allegoria collection channels fluid lines in a different way. The collection is inspired by the four seasons, and among the pieces designed to celebrate summer is a pair of jacket earrings, where the pièce de resistance are two fan-shaped emeralds in a deep green tone, totalling 18 carats. The emeralds sit atop 17 delicate strands of diamonds, some of the strands ending with a marquise tourmaline in shades of green, pink or silvery blue. With strands of diamonds that flutter gently when the earring is worn, catching the light as they move, this is certainly a piece that stands out for its ability to present precious stones in a dynamic, fluid design.
Hong Kong’s own Ronald Abram has been showcasing new earring designs at its boutique in the Mandarin Oriental, with one of the earrings featuring strands of cabochon emeralds and marquise diamonds, cascading from an emerald surrounded by a halo-like set of white diamonds.
Ronald Abram, emerald and marquise diamond droplet earrings

Another intriguing Tweed de Chanel piece has two sides – a novel aspect that might signal a new trend in high jewellery earrings. Pairing tweed with a big cat – another of the maison’s famed icons – the Tweed Lion earrings have an asymmetrical design, where one side features diamonds plus other precious stones in red, yellow and orange, woven into a tweed-like pattern and accented with a marquise ruby in vibrant red. The other side is made up of a lion motif and its own ruby in the same cut and similar tone.

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Other new earring designs from Ronald Abram emphasise coloured stones in different cuts. One has gorgeous pear-shaped emeralds matched with marquise diamonds, the latter set in a unique angular grid.
Ronald Abram, yellow and white earrings
Yellow diamonds are the star of the show in another piece, where each earring has four golden-yellow stones, one of them in the shape of a heart. Providing colour contrast are four white diamonds, with one also heart-shaped to match its yellow counterpart.
Graff is known for its yellow diamonds, a reputation that began in 1974, when Laurence Graff acquired a yellow diamond that became known as the Star of Bombay, an emerald-cut beauty totalling 47.39 carats.
Pear-shaped yellow and multishape white diamond earrings from Graff’s Tribal Collection
During autumn/winter 2023-24 Haute Couture Week, the British high jewellery house displayed its expertise in yellow diamonds with an exhibition at its flagship boutique in Paris. “Sunrise: A Celebration of Graff Yellow Diamonds” gathered various Graff pieces, one of which is a pair of earrings from the Tribal collection that feature pear-shaped yellow diamonds as bright as a ray of sunshine.

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Victoire de Castellane, creative director at Dior Jewellery, took two things close to Christian Dior’s heart – couture and gardens – and turned them into high jewellery collection Les Jardins de la Couture. The pieces are complex and colourful, with de Castellane tapping into colours from a large variety of precious stones such as opals, tourmalines, sapphires and diamonds to create jewelled gardens. The earrings look like floral bouquets, some featuring as many as seven colours from different precious stones in one design, all in intricate settings requiring hours of painstaking work by Dior’s artisans. As befitting the collection’s name, it’s a process that brings to mind the hours of dressmaking work that go into couture creation.
Le Jardin de Chaumet collection, Magnolia earrings
Earrings don’t have to be in a cascading design to make a statement. Le Jardin de Chaumet takes high jewellery collectors on a walk through the wonders of nature, from trees and flowers to wheat fields and vineyards. The Magnolia earrings feature a circular design that wraps around the ear lobe. Diamond pavé petals and delicately engraved gold palmettes surround a diamond cut in Chaumet’s patented Taille Impératrice style.
Piaget’s Metaphoria collection is also inspired by nature, and the Alata ear cuff is a novel way to wear an adornment around the ear. Petals of mother-of-pearl, diamond pavé and gold – treated with Piaget’s Décor Palace engraving – fan out, creating an ear cuff that feels more like a hair adornment, a matching ear stud tying the whole look together.
  • From Dior’s Les Jardins de la Couture floral bouquets and Gucci’s Allegoria jacket design to Chanel’s Tweed Pétale and Tweed Lion, high jewellery earrings were bolder and more ornate than ever in 2023
  • Piaget’s Alata ear cuff resembles a hair adornment, the nature-inspired Le Jardin de Chaumet Magnolia earrings wrap around the lobes, while Graff continues hewing to its love for yellow diamonds