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Is modular jewellery the future of fashion? Chanel, Boucheron, Chaumet and De Beers all unveiled ingenious detachable pieces in 2023, proving that luxury and versatility can go hand in hand

The Spring set from Chapter 2 of De Beers’ Metamorphosis collection was inspired by the King Protea flower from southern Africa. Photos: Handout
High jewellery that can be worn in various ways can feel like a gift that keeps on giving, different options providing fresh ways to wear a piece according to your outfit and mood.
In the high jewellery collections launched throughout 2023, there have been many ingeniously versatile pieces. Prime examples can be found in De Beers’ 46-piece Metamorphosis, a collection that conveys nature’s evolution as the seasons change. De Beers launched Chapter 1 in January 2023, following it up with Chapter 2 in July.
Metamorphosis by De Beers collection, Summer Masterpiece diamond and jacket ring

Spring is represented by the king protea, a flowering plant found in South Africa – just like De Beers’ diamonds. A necklace features petals set with diamonds that flutter gently when the wearer moves. Both white and rose gold are used to portray the pink hue of the flower, while the 3.02-carat fancy brown-orange diamond is detachable, enabling it to be worn on its own as a stunning pendant.

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The design backstory for Summer is a surprising one, with De Beers pointing to the golden-brown spirals of ammonite fossils as inspiration for the pieces. A piece that can be worn in three ways, the Summer Masterpiece diamond and jacket ring features yellow gold wings set with rows of diamonds. A 7.61-carat fancy vivid yellow diamond is nestled inside the jacket ring and can be worn with the set or as a solitaire. A third ring, made of yellow gold and set with diamonds designed to match seamlessly with the jacket ring, can be used to replace the solitaire.
Le Jardin de Chaumet collection, The Fields Wheat necklace

The angular patterns formed on frozen lakes are a source of inspiration for Winter in Chapter 2, as seen in a necklace featuring a graphic pattern in white gold fragments. A rare 5.06-carat diamond in a dramatic dark grey-green hangs as a pendant from the centre, or can be worn on its own.

Chanel shows that no carat count is too high and no design too complicated to include detachable elements. The Tweed de Chanel high jewellery collection weaves gold and precious stones into a glittering homage to tweed, an iconic fabric for the maison.
Tweed Royal necklace from Chanel

The Tweed Royal necklace is one of the shining stars – a creation that required some 2,400 hours to craft yellow and white gold, diamonds and rubies into a tweed pattern. A bejewelled lion motif, another iconic symbol for the maison, sits at the centre of the necklace and can be detached and worn as a brooch. Positioned in the centre of the necklace like a pendant is a singular pear-cut diamond weighing 10.17 carats, which can be removed and worn as a ring instead.

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The camellia flower is another significant symbol for the brand and can be seen in many of the pieces in the Tweed de Chanel collection, such as the Tweed Camélia cravat necklace. A total of 50.22 carats of pink sapphires in different cuts are arranged in a subtle gradient among the tweed pattern. Sitting at the centre, its concentric rings overlapping the sapphires, a white gold camellia set with diamonds can be removed to allow the pink stones to shine on their own.

Metamorphosis by De Beers collection, Summer Masterpiece diamond and jacket ring

Boucheron plays with brooches in Like a Queen: unveiled in January, the collection is based on the maison’s own art deco brooch from 1937, which was set with diamonds and aquamarines. That brooch would become an 18th birthday gift for the late Queen Elizabeth, whose uncle, Prince George, gifted it to her in 1944. The Queen wore the brooch on numerous occasions (at least 37 times, according to Boucheron) – including during her Diamond Jubilee and Platinum Jubilee, in 2012 and 2022.

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The original brooch is detachable into two mirror parts, and some Like a Queen pieces interpret this design aspect in surprising ways, in six colour sets. A brooch from the Frosty White set turns into a clasp to link three strands of pearls and diamonds together into a necklace. The Rolling Red set includes a necklace where the brooch is reimagined as a pendant with a cascade of diamonds and rubies, to complement a choker-style necklace set with diamonds, with the pendant doubling as a brooch.

Le Jardin de Chaumet collection, The Fields Wheat necklace

Le Jardin de Chaumet collection is a poetic showcase of nature, with pieces inspired by trees, vines, flowers and even undergrowth. The Blé parure honours one of Chaumet’s earliest iconic motifs, the maison having created tiaras featuring wheat ears for Empress Joséphine – the first wife of Napoleon Bonaparte – and some 150 diamond ears of wheat for Empress Marie Louise, Napoleon’s second wife.

Among the five pieces in the parure is the Blé necklace, which can be worn in three styles. Yellow gold ears of wheat, set with diamonds, are draped over a V-shaped aigrette necklace, from which hangs a 10.25-carat emerald-cut diamond.

  • Boucheron’s Frosty White brooch transforms into a necklace clasp, while the brand’s Rolling Red pendant doubles as a brooch – and Chanel’s Tweed Royal necklace has a pendant that can be worn as a ring
  • With the natural world continuing to inspire, both the Blé (wheat) necklace from Le Jardin de Chaumet collection and De Beers’ Summer Masterpiece diamond and jacket ring can be worn in three ways