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Watches and Wonders Edit: Inside Vacheron Constantin’s collab with Yiqing Yin – previously a Hermès and Swarovski partner, the designer fashioned the daring Égérie collection

Working with fashion designer Yiqing Yin, watchmaker Vacheron Constantin has produced the new Égérie: The Pleats of Time and Égérie Moon Phase models

The Égérie collection blends the best of old and new, taking Vacheron Constantin, one of the world’s most venerable watchmakers, into uncharted territory. The revered Swiss luxury watch manufacture first released the collection in 2020, drawing inspiration from the world of haute couture, while also becoming known for pushing the boundaries of innovation with its eye catching off-centre display.

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Vacheron Constantin Égérie: The Pleats of Time

Those two things come together on the two new Égérie watches released by the maison at this year’s Watches and Wonders, thanks to a collaboration with a leading light of the fashion world – one that has resulted in some startlingly avant-garde touches.

Designer Yiqing Yin even designed a pleated dress to accompany The Pleats of Time concept watch

Both The Pleats of Time concept watch and the Égérie Moon Phase are the fruits of a collaboration between Vacheron Constantin and fashion superstar Yiqing Yin. One of the world’s most respected designers, she has been showing at Paris Fashion Week since 2011, and has worked with the likes of Leonard, Guerlain, Hermès and Swarovski. She has also long brought her talents to bear on other artistic fields, designing costumes for several film and dance productions, and collaborating on numerous artworks and exhibitions.

Designer Yiqing Yin has previously worked with Guerlain, Hermès and Swarovski

Here, Yin extends her creative reach further by bringing her vision to a pair of head-turning timepieces. In particular, The Pleats of Time takes haute horology into entirely new territory, drawing its influences not just from haute couture but also from haute parfumerie.

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The Vacheron Constantin Égérie: The Pleats of Time has a mother-of-pearl dial

The piece takes its name from its mesmerising dial, decorated with mother-of-pearl pleats interwoven with layers of silk threads, reminiscent of the pleating and draping effects Yin often uses in her couture creations. A circle of these pleats fills the centre, surrounded by a circle of gold pearls, then the pleated pattern extends out to the dial’s edge. Entirely free of indications so that its slender hours, minutes and seconds hands come with added impact, the face is shaded in a soft lilac hue, as is its moon phase complication.

The asymmetrical geometry that characterises the collection sees the moon phase appearing at 2 o’clock alongside the crown, which is set with a moonstone, while opposite, at 8 o’clock, is the maison’s name. Diamonds encircle both the bezel and the moon phase: 58 of them on the former and 34 on the latter, while the piece is housed in a 37mm diamond-set pink gold case.

The asymmetrical geometry is another eye-catching feature of the Vacheron Constantin Égérie: The Pleats of Time

Things get even more interesting with The Pleats of Time’s calfskin leather strap. An artwork in itself, it uses embroidery and mother-of-pearl shards to create an abstract pattern designed by Yin to evoke a wild watercourse. But it is also the vessel for a fragrance, contained within nanocapsules in the lining, loop and embroidery.

The fragrance is the work of master perfumer Dominique Ropion, one of the most renowned noses in the business, who has developed some of the world’s most beloved fragrances for the likes of Lancôme, Givenchy, Issey Miyake and Yves Saint Laurent. The scent was crafted to complement the watch, displaying pastel, wintry, powdery and iridescent notes, and featuring ingredients including galbanum, lavender, orange blossom, honeysuckle, ylang-ylang, myrrh and oud. It’s designed to be released gradually by the strap, with the movements of the wrist.

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The Égérie Moon Phase is infused with the same pioneering DNA. Again, the moon phase appears at 2 o’clock, with the house’s name at 8 o’clock, and again the piece comes with a 37mm pink gold case and rings of diamonds around the bezel and moon phase.

The Vacheron Constantin Égérie Moon Phase has a more conventional dial but retains the asymmetrical geometry

Here, though, the pleats on the mother-of-pearl dial are broken by a smooth ring that backs the numerals. The Égérie Moon Phase comes with three interchangeable straps in colours developed by the designer: lilac alligator leather, night blue satin-effect calfskin and powder-pink grained calfskin leather.

Both it and The Pleats of Time are powered by the in-house Calibre 1088 L, visible through the caseback in the Égérie Moon Phase – which is also engraved with Yin’s name and the individual piece’s number from among the limited edition of just 100.

Style Edit
  • Yiqing Yin has been shown at Paris Fashion Week every year since 2011 – here she worked on Vacheron Constantin’s Égérie: The Pleats of Time and Égérie Moon Phase timepieces
  • The Pleats of Time’s leather strap has a fragrance in its lining, developed by master perfumer Dominique Ropion, who has worked with Lancôme, Givenchy, Issey Miyake and Yves Saint Laurent