Burch loves a dramatic backdrop and says the space at the historic Emigrant Industrial Savings Bank (built in 1909 in the Beaux-Arts style) in downtown Manhattan set a scene, with mercurial shapes and artworks twisting into themselves, projected onto the towering ornate walls and a mysterious curtain that revealed the models as they entered.

The show included Burch hallmarks – neutral, classic colours like navy, tan, black and olive, but with splashes of brightness in red or metallic shoes and purses. But many looks reflected the themes of deconstruction: asymmetrical lines in skirts and belts, long blazers, exaggerated blouse cuffs and long and slouchy sleeves and pants.

“It was meant to be a bit undone,” Burch explained. “I wanted to crush that idea and challenge the concept of what is femininity and what is beauty. What is perfection? To me, it was a little bit about like how to do beautiful and construction and silhouette but also allow room for interpretation.”

The mixes of colours and fabrics were also unexpected – like a long navy wool jacket hugging the model’s shape, topping bright lime green satin pants that overflowed over pointed shoes. The jumbo-sized safety pins accenting skirts and dresses and appearing in punkish earrings stood out. Another themed element was the mix of casual fabrics with more luxurious ones. One look had a denim knee-length skirt paired with a navy wool peacoat with a shearling collar.

“The satin was this old lingerie idea, looks that were something that women traditionally hide, shapewear that I wanted to expose, and make that beautiful,” Burch said. “I twisted them and we made them different proportions and they were off kilter.”

Model Ashley Graham said she’s a huge fan of Burch, especially for making clothing that is accessible at almost any size. Graham said she had to contain herself when she saw her model friends strutting the runway.