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How 3D printing is changing Swiss luxury watchmaking

Beating inside of the Parmigiani x Bugatti prototype, there are some parts not quite like the others.
Beating inside of the Parmigiani x Bugatti prototype, there are some parts not quite like the others.
SIHH 2018

A number of luxury watchmakers are embracing 3D printing and other hi-tech innovations, while others prefer to stick to traditional craftsmanship and techniques

Beating inside the mechanical heart of the Parmigiani Bugatti Type 370 prototype are some parts quite unlike the others – parts that, instead of being crafted by milling machines, have been 3D printed.

“We use 3D printers almost on a daily basis,” says Florin Niculescu, Parmigiani’s vice-president of product development. “It’s a great help for us to validate the design as quickly as possible and have something ‘real’ to show designers and watchmakers.”

A watch maker working on a part from the Parmigiani x Bugatti timepiece.
A watch maker working on a part from the Parmigiani x Bugatti timepiece.
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Mechanical watch purists might frown upon the new trend. However, luxury watchmakers are reinvigorating the century-old industry by embracing 3D printing and other hi-tech innovations – in materials and in mechanisms – to improve efficiency and ergonomics and create groundbreaking designs.

3D printing is becoming a common and powerful tool for luxury watchmakers for prototyping. Some are printing specific watchmaking tools which otherwise would take specialised tool makers hours or even days to complete.

“3D printing has allowed us to react much quicker,” says Christian Knoop, IWC’s creative director. “We use the technology to print prototypes and run mechanical simulations which have changed the way we [traditionally] develop products.”

The IWC Tribute To Pallweber Edition '150 Years' from Pre-SIHH 2018. IWC uses 3D printing for watch prototyping.
The IWC Tribute To Pallweber Edition '150 Years' from Pre-SIHH 2018. IWC uses 3D printing for watch prototyping.

The brand’s CEO, Christoph Grainger-Herr, adds that “speed and control” are the main benefits of incorporating the technology into the R&D process.

“I think this is a wonderful basis for even more high-quality movements, and in terms of movement autonomy and servicing, it makes perfect sense,” Grainger-Herr says.

Vivian Chen
In the trade since 2009, Vivian Chen is a seasoned features journalist. As the Deputy Editor of STYLE Magazine, Vivian represents the publication at various fashion and luxury events including Paris Haute Couture Week and Salon International de la Haute Horlogerie. Vivian’s beat focuses on fashion, watches and jewellery. Her story “Independent Minds” won Excellence Award for Best Feature on Timepieces at Asian Publishing Awards 2014. Vivian also manages the magazine’s social media platforms and digital content. She was invited as a keynote speaker at Facebook Ecommerce Business Summit in Shenzhen, China.