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5 Kuala Lumpur speakeasies that make the most creative cocktails in town

The amount of effort that Bar Shake’s Japanese bartender Sam Kinugawa puts into his cocktails is impressive. Bar Shake is indicative of the direction the fast growing Kuala Lumpur speakeasy scene has taken in recent years with the emphasis being on original and cleverly constructed cocktails. Photo: Bar Shake

It’s been six years since Kuala Lumpur’s speakeasy scene exploded, and in that time, mixology in the Malaysian capital has continued to go from strength to strength. Local KL-ites’ perennial thirst for original, cleverly constructed cocktails has given rise to a fresh and exciting crop of bars, all of which put their own unique spin on the speakeasy experience. You might not have to queue to get in – not yet, anyway – but reserving seats in advance is always a good idea.

1. The Deceased

 

Don’t let the smell of funeral incense and the bloody handprints along the wall deter you from climbing up the stairs to this sinister speakeasy. Its entire cocktail menu is based on Malaysian superstitions – of which there are many – and black magic, including one drink that’s named after the notorious murderess and bomoh (a Malay shaman) Mona Fandey. Meanwhile, the bar counter groans with skulls and the walls are plastered with gory, Manga-esque depictions of hell. All in all, it’s a scream.

Order: The Petty Person Beating, accompanied by a clog to whack your worst enemy with.

Address: 55 Jalan Sultan, 50000, Kuala Lumpur

Open: Wednesday-Monday, 6:30pm-2am

2. Bar Shake

The amount of effort that Japanese bartender Sam Kinugawa puts into his cocktails is nothing short of impressive: he makes his own soda and tonic water, hand-squeezes his fruit juices, and has perfected the art of whittling a block of ice into an ice ball. The canapés are worth mentioning, too – you can eat your fill of custard doughnuts or caviar with creamed potato on taro chips, washed down with a Mangosteen Saketini.

Order: The Clear Bloody Mary with bird’s eye chilli-infused vodka and clarified tomato juice.

Address: Level 2, Tower 1, Platinum Park, 11 Persiaran KLCC, 50088, Kuala Lumpur

Open: Monday-Friday, 4pm-late, and Saturday-Sunday, 6pm-late

 

3. Botak Liquor

Head up the rickety spiral staircase at modern Malaysian restaurant Chocha Foodstore, and you’ll immediately be charmed by Botak Liquor’s hanging baskets and verdant greenery, which spills around and above bar stools and wicker chairs. Locally sourced ingredients are a priority here – they have their own organic farm in the state of Pahang – and their recently refreshed menu plays with textures in liquid, from cordials to waxy cacao butter cocktails, house ferments, or nut milks.

Order: There are 12 signature cocktails to choose from, so start with the graceful Bunga Pisang, which features the unusual addition of banana flower.

Address: 156 Jalan Petaling, 50000, Kuala Lumpur

Open: Wednesday-Sunday, 5:30pm-late

4. Soma Cocktail Bar

Don’t believe anyone who tells you the best speakeasies are only found within Kuala Lumpur’s Golden Triangle. In the hip, relaxed neighbourhood of TTDI (Taman Tun Dr Ismail), East Malaysian bar director Jason Julian shakes up a storm behind Soma’s counter in a pineapple-print shirt. His extensive experience speaks for itself: the flavours of his house cocktails are perfectly balanced and beautifully concocted, such as a zingy Yuzu Sour or a salty-sweet Asian Pornstar with passion fruit purée and sour plum.

Order: Spirits of Borneo, laced with Borneo tuak (palm wine), pays homage to Jason’s Sabahan roots. Also, as a former chef, he occasionally makes a superb soybean pudding as a cooling bar snack.

Address: 145A Jalan Aminuddin Baki, Taman Tun Dr Ismail, 60000, Kuala Lumpur

Open: daily, 6pm-2am

5. Mrs Jones’ Parlour

Look for the pink neon light along a quiet row of shophouses in the nearby district of Petaling Jaya, and you’ve found Mrs Jones’ Parlour. There’s an elaborate backstory to this eccentric speakeasy involving a Czech gypsy girl blessed with the power to create magic potions. While you decide whether you believe this tall tale, you can work your way through the bar’s offerings, which focus on gin and wine. It boasts an exhaustive list of gins from all over the world, including France, Slovenia, and Finland, plus premium Three Cents and East Imperial tonics.

Order: One of Mrs Jones’ magic potions – the delightfully fruity Johanna, made with Hendrick’s, cherry liqueur, amaro, and elderflower syrup – will keep you there until closing time.

Address: 617A Jalan 17/10, Seksyen 17, 46400, Petaling Jaya

Open: Monday-Thursday, 5pm-1am, and Friday-Saturday, 5pm-2am

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KL’s mixology scene is awash with originality, from The Deceased bar’s celebration of the macabre, the attention to detail at Bar Shake, to the organic simplicity of Botak Liquor