Trump-Kim summit 2019: Hanoi puts its best food forward for culinary diplomacy

Journalists from around the world are in the Vietnamese capital to watch the US and North Korean leaders break bread and tackle denuclearisation, as the city serves up culinary specials to highlight its tourism potential

Trump-Kim summit

Crystal TaiandLam Le

Published: 9:32am, 27 Feb 2019

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Pham Thi Anh Tuyet hopes to become the first Vietnamese chef to serve North Korean supreme leader Kim Jong-un in her own restaurant in Hanoi, on the sidelines of his second summit with United States President Donald Trump.

The celebrated chef, who runs her namesake eatery Anh Tuyet Restaurant in the city’s old quarter, has had no indication of whether Kim might visit – she is among the other hopefuls who have made preparations for potential VIP guests as talks take place in the capital this week.

Vietnamese chef Pham Thi Anh Tuyet prepares a dish in her kitchen. Photo: SCMP/Dayu Zhang

“The chance to meet Kim would make me proud,” Tuyet told the South China Morning Post from the cosy, rustic dining room of her Hanoi eatery, which serves traditional dishes such as fried crab spring rolls. “The summit is a source of excitement for Hanoi and Vietnam.”

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Tuyet, 71, has carved out a reputation for catering to world leaders on their trips to her country. She was the head chef for the state lunch during the 2017 Asia-Pacific Economic Cooperation (Apec) economic leaders’ meeting in Da Nang, which was attended by Trump, Chinese President Xi Jinping and his Russian counterpart Vladimir Putin, among others.

Pham Thi Anh Tuyet’s award-winning honey-roasted chicken. Photo: SCMP/Dayu Zhang

During the upcoming summit, Tuyet hopes to serve Kim a portion of her award-winning honey-roasted chicken – which retails for about US$10 per portion and was once called “the best dish in the world” by the late Anthony Bourdain.

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Hanoi was the backdrop for Bourdain’s memorable meal with then-president Barack Obama at Bun cha Huong Lien in Hanoi.

The two chatted while sitting on stools, tucking into beer and noodles that cost about US$6. “The president’s chopstick skills are on point,” Bourdain posted on Instagram at the time.

As Donald Trump and Kim Jong-un discuss issues such as nuclear disarmament and potentially ending the Korean war, the host nation is actively embarking on its own form of culinary diplomacy.

At a press conference on Monday, Vietnam’s Vice Foreign Minister Le Hoai Trung said Prime Minister Nguyen Xuan Phuc reportedly told his staff to serve the media popular local dishes including pho, nem (spring rolls) and xoi khuc (sticky rice) in the hope of promoting Vietnamese cuisine.

The country has long been known for its array of colourful dishes, from savoury beef noodles to flavourful banh mi sandwiches and fragrant rice paper rolls, as well as its distinctive and dynamic street food culture.

On Tuesday morning, as Kim Jong-un’s armoured train rolled into Hanoi, the Vietnamese organisers unrolled their spread of local offerings at the Cultural Friendship Palace dining area inside the press centre.

Kim’s armoured train rolled into Hanoi on Tuesday morning. Photo: EPA

Plate upon plate of local delights such as my xao thap cam (mixed stir-fried noodles) and bun cha (grilled pork with cold pho noodles) were served at the lavish media buffet.

Local promoters were also in attendance. “This dish is called bun thang, it’s a chicken soup with chicken and mushroom … It’s very popular in Hanoi and has been a local dish for more than 100 years,” said Linh Nguyen, a spokeswoman and server for Nha hang Vuon Am Thuc, a local chicken soup restaurant.

Vietnam is taking a leaf out of Singapore’s book. Last year, the Lion City served up regional specialities such as laksa and chicken rice for visiting media, among international offerings such as Thai, Korean, Chinese, Indian, French and Middle Eastern cuisine.

Tourism experts say Vietnam’s government is aware of the immense marketing opportunities created by the arrival of thousands of journalists from the international media.

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“This conference will provide more marketing for Vietnam tourism than they have spent in their entire history,” said Mark Gwyther, founder of MGT Management Consulting, a Vietnam-based tourism consultancy.

“I’ve heard they are offering the press free trips to Halong Bay and other northern tourism sites. It is the perfect time for these promotions to be happening, especially with all the South Korean, Japanese, and Chinese interest.”

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Vietnamese wasn’t the only fare on the menu for foreign press. South Korean bakery Paris Baguette was also among the food promoters at the press centre – promoting Korean-style pastries in the name of inter-Korean peace.

“Our founder, Hur Young-in, was actually born in North Korea,” explained spokesman Jimin Chen.

“After the Korean war, he moved to South Korea and ran a bakery that became Paris Baguette. And he hopes that the Korean peninsula will achieve peace,” said Chen, adding that the bakery brand – which runs 15 outlets in Vietnam – also played a role at the previous summit in Singapore.

A Pizza Home customer with their free pizza. Photo: Pizza Home

Elsewhere in Hanoi, in busy Hai Ba Trung district, local eateries such as American-style eatery Pizza Home have been busy promoting their menu ahead of the summit.

Anyone with the names Do Nam Trung and Kim Trong An – common Vietnamese names similar to those of the American and North Korean leaders – will receive a free pizza, staff told the Post. Customers who arrive sporting similar haircuts to either Trump or Kim will also be given free pies.

Customers sporting similar haircuts to Trump or Kim receive free pizzas at Pizza Home. Photo: Pizza Home

Such gimmicks have proven effective. “So far, 288 have received free pizzas,” said owner Hoang Tung, adding that sales have also increased by 100 per cent since they launched the promotion last week.

“This summit is special for us. It is much more special than other previous visits by world leaders because it symbolises harmony,” he said. “As a businessman, I also want to organise a fun event for everyone … This event helps people find the politics of this event more approachable and fun.”

Additional reporting by John Power

This article appeared in the South China Morning Post print edition as: hanoi puts best food forward for summit

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