Are under-eye fillers better for dark circles than eye creams? Vitamin C and retinol can do wonders topically, but they still don’t compare to the instant results from injectables for an instant fix

Sep 2 , 2023

Dermal fillers are a great way to combat dark circles under the eyes. Photo: Handout

Considered one of the most common concerns within the skincare universe, under-eye circles can arise from various factors, such as genetics, the natural ageing process, or even lifestyle elements like sleep and hydration.

However, an important question emerges amid the appeal of injectables dominating the beauty landscape: can eye creams really work their magic, or is it time to embrace fillers?

The delicate skin under our eyes is one of the first to show signs of ageing, with crow’s feet as the opening act, and even when eye creams may help this area look plumper, their formulas might not wield the potency needed to truly meet our under-eye needs.

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What can and can’t eye creams do?

Sulwhasoo Concentrated Ginseng eye cream. Photo: Handout

The realm of eye care features various gels, creams, sera and patches. While creams tend to reign supreme, their main power leans towards hydration and firmness.

“When talking about dark circles, what makes them so hard to treat is, on one side, the wide range of factors that can contribute to their existence, like allergies, volume loss, skin thinning, genetics and hyperpigmentation,” says Kacie Robinson, a certified APRN (advanced practice registered nurse) and aesthetic injector at The Wellness Club, “and on the other side, how tricky it can be to distinguish them from puffiness and bags, which can lead to choosing the wrong approach to tackle them”.

Paula’s Choice C5 Super Boost eye cream. Photo: Handout

That’s why most experts recommend focusing on certain ingredients that have been proven to help boost the under-eye area, such as vitamin C and retinoids. Even then, the question remains: can eye creams get rid of your dark circles completely?

Most likely not, and although quality formulas can lighten dark circles, decrease puffiness and tackle wrinkles, if you’re pursuing significant changes, you may need in-office treatments to help out – especially if genetics are a contributor.

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How do under-eye fillers work?

Fillers are a popular option for those looking to improve their appearance. Photo: Handout

While the jump from creams to fillers may seem radical, it can be a true game-changer. But before you start scouting medspas in your area, it’s crucial to be aware of how fillers work, and what to expect from them.

Dermal fillers involve injecting substances into the skin to enhance its appearance. “Under-eye fillers – also known as tear-trough injections – are mostly made of hyaluronic acid, a naturally occurring substance in our bodies that acts like a water-lock microsponge contributing to skin plumpness and smoothness,” Robinson explains. However, as we age, hyaluronic acid naturally decreases, leading to skin sagging and wrinkling.

Before and after shots of under-eye fillers. Photo: Handout

When injected, it creates a filling effect that can improve the look of the skin around your eyes thanks to its soft, gel-like nature, primarily addressing sunken areas that create shadows under the eyes, causing dark circles.

“This hollowness results from collagen and hyaluronic acid loss, and fillers effectively replace these elements, adding volume to the area and reducing the appearance of circles,” Robinson says. Over time, the body naturally absorbs the filler, making its effects temporary.

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What’s the right type of filler for dark circles?

Dark circles under the eyes can be caused by a number of factors, including tiredness and allergies. Photo: Handout

All patients exhibit different facial features and varying concerns regarding their eye area, so the optimal filler for one may not be suitable for another. For example, Restylane, a long-standing hyaluronic acid injectable, is renowned for delivering subtle, natural-looking outcomes, offering just the right balance of stiffness and flexibility for this delicate region.

Dermal fillers can improve the appearance of dark under-eye circles. Photo: Getty Images

Juvéderm, another prominent hyaluronic injection, displays a more potent concentration of hyaluronic acid than Restylane, according to Plastic Surgery & Dermatology of NYC. And its enhanced effectiveness makes it suitable for addressing under-eye bags and dark circles, particularly for those with deeper hollows. Versa also stands out as a great option for tackling volume loss.

It can be used on various facial regions, but it’s particularly valuable for the under-eye area due to its reduced swelling post-injection, enabling precision in delicate treatments.

Beauty

Under-eye circles can arise from various factors, from a lack of sleep or hydration to genetics and natural ageing – so how can we get rid of them with the help of the beauty industry?
Eye creams from brands like Sulwhasoo and Paula’s Choice are good to use in the long term, but if you’re looking for something instant and noticeable, under-eye fillers can be a more suitable option